SB 


MRLF 


S3/C+ 


D34 


SWEET  PEAS 
UP-TO-DATE 


BURPEE'S  FIERY  CROSS 
SWEET  PEA 


PUBLISHED  IN  1917  BY 

W.  ATLEE  BURPEE  &  CO. 

SEED  GROWERS 
PHILADELPHIA,  PENNSYLVANIA 


1.    HEX!  BUS 


SWEET  PEAS  UP-TO-DATE 

BY  G.  W.  KERR 


COUNTESS  SPENCER  SWEET  PEA. 

Grown  by  JAMES  W.  NAIRN,  Truro,  Nova  Scotia,  who  sends  the  charming 
photograph  from  which  this  engraving  has  been  reproduced. 


SWEET  PEAS 
UP-TO-DATE 

WITH" A  COMPLETE  DESCRIPTION 
OF  ALL  KNOWN  VARIETIES,  IN- 
CLUDING NOVELTIES  FOR  1917 

BY  G.  W.  KERR 


PUBLISHED    IN     1917   BY 

W.  ATLEE  BURPEE  &  CO. 

SEED    GROWERS,    PHILADELPHIA 


COPYRIGHT,  1910,  1914,  1916,  AND  1917,  BY  W.  ATLEE  BURPEE  &  Co. 
PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 

All  rights  reserved 


Agric. 


PREFACE 

WE  were  well  pleased  with  the  reception  accorded  our  re- 
vised edition  of  Sweet  Peas  Up-To-Date  when  published 
in  1910,  but  since  the  list  of  varieties  contained  therein 
was  compiled  so  great  has  been  the  interest  of  hybridizers 
and  specialists  in  this  beautiful  flower,  that  new  varieties 
have  been  offered  the  public  in  bewildering  numbers, 
with  the  result  that  to  keep  our  book  really  "up-to-date" 
we  feel  that  it  is  necessary  to  publish  this  new  edition. 

Sweet  Peas  are  a  great  specialty  with  us,  neither 
time  nor  money  being  spared  in  our  endeavors  to  test 
and  try  out  all  novelties  as  they  are  offered  by  European 
and  other  Sweet  Pea  specialists.  Our  Sweet  Pea  trials 
at  Fordhook  Farms  in  1913  numbered  1133,  many  of 
these  being  duplicated  on  Burpee's  Floradale  Farm  in 
California.  We  are  thus  enabled  to  find  out  for  our- 
selves just  which  varieties  are  worthy  of  perpetuating 
and  offering  to  our  customers  and  friends. 

We  have — at  Fordhook — for  the  past  eight  years 
been  hybridizing  the  original  winter-flowering  varieties, 
viz.:  Burpee's  Earliest  of  All  (Christmas  Pink),  Burpee's 
Earliest  Sunbeams,  Burpee's  Earliest  White,  Burpee's 
Re-selected  Earliest  of  All,  and  Yarrawa,  with  the  finest 
varieties  of  Spencers,  with  a  view  to  evolving  a  new  race 
of  early  or  winter-flowering  Spencers,  and  we  are  now 
able  to  say  that  we  have  accomplished  this  even  beyond 
our  most  sanguine  expectations,  as  we  have  now  winter- 
flowering  Spencers  in  many  exquisite  colors,  a  number  of 
which  we  are  offering  this  season;  others  will  be  intro- 
duced as  we  work  up  sufficient  "trued"  stocks.  We 
anticipate  that  in  the  near  future  we  will  have  this  in- 
valuable type  to  offer  in  all  the  colors  now  found  in  the 
summer-flowering  varieties. 

W.  ATLEE  BURPEE  &  Co. 

Fordhook  Farms,  December  n,  1916. 


5 

385919 


INTRODUCTION 

"THE  Sweet  Pea  has  a  keel  that  was  meant  to  seek  all 
shores;  it  has  wings  that  were  meant  to  fly  across  all 
continents;  it  has  a  standard  which  is  friendly  to  all 
nations;  and  it  has  a  fragrance  like  the  universal  Gos- 
pel :  yea,  a  sweet  prophecy  of  welcome  everywhere  that 
has  been  abundantly  fulfilled/' 

So  said  the  REV.  W.  T.  HUTCHINS,  the  well-known 
Sweet  Pea  enthusiast,  when  attending  the  Sweet  Pea 
Bi-centenary  Celebration  in  London  in  1900;  and  his 
words  sound  almost  like  a  prophecy — a  prophecy  that 
has  indeed  been  abundantly  fulfilled. 

As  far  as  we  can  learn  the  Sweet  Pea  is  a  native 
of  Sicily,  and  we  read  that  in  1699  FRANCISCUS  CUPANI, 
an  Italian  monk,  sent  seeds  to  England,  and  so  was 
begun  the  culture  of  Sweet  Peas. 

Although  there  were  several  distinct  colors  in  cul- 
tivation, no  great  advancement  was  made  until  the 
late  HENRY  ECKFORD,  of  Wem,  Shropshire,  England, 
in  1870  started  his  great  life  work  on  Sweet  Peas. 
Since  then  the  development  of  this  lovely  and  fragrant 
flower  has  been  one  of  the  floral  wonders  of  the  age. 

The  late  THOMAS  LAXTON,  of  Bedford,  England,  also 
worked  on  the  improvement  of  the  Sweet  Pea,  starting 
in  1877.  His  Invincible  Carmine  was  certificated  in 
1883,  being  the  first  recorded  result  of  cross-fertilization, 
and  since  then  many  florists  have  assisted  in  carrying 
on  the  improvement  of  the  Sweet  Pea,  America  being 
to  the  front  as  usual,  many  charming  and  refined  va- 
rieties being  distributed  by  W.  ATLEE  BURPEE  &  Co. 
and  other  American  seedsmen,  and  quite  three-fourths 

6 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


of  the  Sweet  Pea  seed  used  each  year  all  over  the  world 
is  grown  in  this  country. 

Had  any  one  sixteen  years  ago  said  that  the  Sweet 
Pea  would  become  within  the  next  few  years  the  most 
popular  flower  of  the  day,  he  would  have  been  laughed 
at,  and  yet  this  has  now  become  an/i££omplished  fact. 

I  can  well  remember  when  the  first  "Sweet  Pea 
Show"  in  England  was  planned  (that  was  in  '1900). 
Although  I  was  a  great  admirer  of  the  Sweet  Pea  and 
had  seen  and  grown  all  the  new  varieties  as  they  were 
introduced,  I  simply  laughed  at  the  idea  of  holding  a 
show  of  Sweet  Peas  alone —  and  I  was  only  a  unit  among 
the  many  scoffers  at  the  project.  But,  thanks  to  those 
at  the  helm,  the  first  show  at  the  Crystal  Palace,  London, 
was  held,  and  turned  out  to  be  such  a  success  that  since 
that  year  the  Sweet  Pea  Society  has  held  its  annual 
Show,  and  now  the  National  Sweet  Pea  Society  is  among 
the  most  flourishing  of  the  "one  flower"  societies;  and 
it  is  impossible  to  describe  to  those  who  nave  not  at- 
tended any  of  their  exhibitions  the  enthusiasm  which 
prevails  among  the  exhibitors,  the  immensity  of  the 
Show  and  the  exquisite  exhibits  from  the  trade  growers: 
flowers  of  the  largest  size  with  stems  eighteen  inches  to 
two  feet  long,  the  long  lines  of  decorated  tables,  and, 
last  but  not  least,  the  novelties.  Of  course,  the  novel- 
ties are  not  all  gems  of  the  first  water,  but  no  Show 
passes  without  some  great  improvement  in  color  or 
form  appearing.  The  Aquarium  Show  of  1901  will 
long  be  remembered,  as  it  was  there  that  Silas  Cole,  of 
Althorp  Gardens,  Northampton,  first  exhibited  his 
glorious  "Countess  Spencer/'  which  was  three  years 
later  introduced  by  the  late  MR.  ROBERT  SYDENHAM, 
of  Birmingham.  The  "Countess  Spencer"  was  such 

7 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


an  improvement  in  size  and  of  a  form  so  distinctly  new, 
the  immense  standard  and  wings  being  beautifully 
frilled  and  waved,  that  it  created  a  perfect  sensation 
at  the  Show,  but  since  the  advent  of  its  introduction  in 
1904  the  new  waved  or  orchid-flowered  varieties  have 
been  added  to  considerably,  these  being  either  sports 
from  the  popular  Countess  Spencer,  or  the  results  of 
the  careful  hybridist. 

The  first  "Spencer"  sports  to  appear  were  John 
Ingman  and  Helen  Lewis,  followed  by  Mrs.  Charles 
Foster  and  Mrs.  Charles  Mander.  Since  then  many 
new  colors  have  been  evolved,  a  list  of  which  is  given 
on  pages  45  to  72. 

About  the  time  that  Mr.  Cole  brought  out  Countess 
Spencer  the  same  variety  was  found  as  a  sport  in  that 
fine  old  grandiflora  variety,  Prima  Donna,  by  Mr.  Viner, 
of  Frome,  Somerset,  and  W.  J.  UNWIN,  of  Histon,  Cam- 
bridge, also  found  a  sport  in  Prima  Donna,  and  this  he 
called  Gladys  Unwin.  It  is  also  of  the  wavy  type  and 
of  much  the  same  shade  of  pink  as  Countess  Spencer, 
but  the  flowers  do  not  come  quite  so  large.  / 

I  must  also  chronicle  the  advent  of  the  harly  or 
Winter-flowering  Spencer  Sweet  Pea.  The  American 
varieties  of  this  new  type  are  all  the  result  of  careful 
crosses,  but  some  four  or  five  years  ago  the  great  Aus- 
tralian variety,  Yarrawa,  appeared  in  that  country  as  a 
direct  mutation  or  sport  from  a  summer  flowering  Spen- 
cer. This  is  a  most  valuable  race,  especially  for  Winter 
forcing  under  glass,  though  it  is  also  useful  for  winter 
and  spring  flowering  in  the  open  in  all  f rostless  countries, 
and  at  least  a  few  of  them  should  be  included  in  all 
Sweet  Pea  collections,  even  in  our  Northern  States,  to 
prolong  the  flowering  season. 


SWEET   PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


The  merest  novice  in  gardening  realizes  that^fhe 
Sweet  Pea  is  the  most  popular  annual  now  cultivated, 
and  this  is  not  to  be  wondered  at  when  we  consider 
all  its  qualities:  first,  there  is  the  primary  question  of 
cost,  when  for  a  few  cents  we  can  have  a  row  right 
around  our  garden  or  clumps  among  our  shrubs — and 
what  other  flower  will  give  us  such  glorious  results  so 
cheaply?  Then,  as  to  cultivation.  The  Sweet  Pea 
will  succeed  in  practically  any  good  garden  soil,  though 
extra  cultivation  will  well  repay  the  grower.  And, 
again,  what  flower  gives  us  such  a  multitude  of  ex- 
quisite colors  and  shades  of  colors  combined  with  such 
delicate  and  thrilling  fragrance  as  our  "Queen  of  All 
Annuals" — the  regal  Sweet  Pea?  And  yet  another 
great  quality  in  its  favor  is  that  the  more  flowers  you 
cut  from  the  vines,  the  longer  and  more  continuously 
will  the  plants  continue  to  bloom.  •  In  fact,  by  not  allow- 
ing any  seed  pods  to  set,  followed  up  with  high-class 
cultivation,  Sweet  Peas  will  continue  to  flower  for  quite 
three  months,  and  in  some  locations  even  longer. 

I  would  draw  the  attention  of  all  Sweet  Pea  lovers 
to  the  claims  of4tTe  American  Sweet  Pea  Society,  which 
was  organized  July  7,  1909. 

This  society  has  held  a  most  successful  exhibition 
and  convention  each  year  since  its  organization  and  a 
number  of  interesting  and  instructive  bulletins  have 
been  issued  to  all  its  members.  ^£- — 

Full  information  regarding  the  society  may  be  had 
from  W.  Atlee  Burpee  &  Company. 

To  those  who  are  unacquainted  with  the  different 
varieties  I  would  specially  recommend  the  collections 
put  up  by  W.  ATLEE  BURPEE  &  Co.,  and  offered  at  very 
moderate  prices.  For  instance  you  can  have  a  large 

9 


SWEET   PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


packet  each  of  six  first-class  sorts  for  25  cents, — thirteen 
varieties  for  50  cents.  While  the  dollar-box  collection 
of  finest  Spencer  varieties  is  great  value.  Full  partic- 
ulars of  the  above  will  be  found  in  the  current  year's 
"  Burpee's  Annual/'  copy  of  which  will  gladly  be  sent 
on  application. 

G.  W.  KERR. 

Fordbook  Farms,  November  22,  1917. 


SOIL  AND  PREPARATION 

ANY  ordinary  garden  soil  will  suit  Sweet  Peas,  pro- 
vided the  following  points  are  observed: 

FIRST.  The  ground  should  be  drained  or  the  soil 
be  of  such  a  nature  that  in  a  season  of  excessive  rains 
the  water  will  not  lie  and  so  cause  the  roots  to  rot, 
or  start  mildew  among  the  plants. 

SECOND.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  such  a 
position  that  no  excessive  shade  shall  interfere  with 
the  sturdy  growth  of  the  vines,  as  too  much  shade 
encourages  a  spindly  and  weak  vine,  with  few,  if  any, 
flowers.  You  should  choose,  therefore,  a  spot  in  your 
garden  right  in  the  open,  where  your  plants  may  have 
all  the  available  light  and  air,  though  a  little  shade 
from  the  scorching  mid-day  suns  of  June  and  July 
will  be  found  most  beneficial. 

Soils  cultivated  and  prepared  as  for  your  vegetable 
plot  will  give  fair  results,  but  for  this,  the  Queen  of 
all  our  annual  plants,  a  little  extra  care  and  selection 
of  soil  will  be  well  repaid  by  the  additional  size  of 
flower,  longer  stems,  better  color,  and  prolonged  period 
of  blooming. 

Whatever  may  be  the  composition  of  your  soil, 
a  start  should  be  made  in  the  fall  of  the  year  by  trench- 
ing it  to  a  depth  of  from  two  to  three  feet.  Should 
the  subsoil  be  poor,  it  would  be  absurd  to  bring  it  to 
the  surface,  but  it  should  be  broken  up,  turned  over, 
and  mixed  with  any  old  garden  refuse  or  stable  litter. 
Thoroughly  mix  with  the  second  spit  a  liberal  quantity 
of  half  decayed  stable  or  cow  manure — the  latter  for 

ii 


SWEET   PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


preference  if  the  soil  is  light — adding  a  good  dressing 
of  bone  meal  as  the  work  proceeds.  The  top  spit  should 
be  filled  in  as  rough  as  possible  (at  the  same  time  mix- 
ing with  the  soil  thoroughly  rotted  manure)  and  left  so 
all  winter,  that  the  frost,  snow,  and  rain  may  have  a 
better  chance  of  exerting  their  mellowing  influences 
upon  the  soil.  Should  the  under  spits  be  very  light, 
1  would  recommend  that  it  should  be  taken  out  of  the 
trench  and  replaced  with  soil  of  heavier  substance.  ' 

If  the  land  is  very  heavy,  with  a  clay  subsoil,  long, 
stable  litter  and  rough  material  from  the  garden  rub- 
bish heap  should  be  incorporated  with  the  subsoil  \frhich 
is  broken  up,  as  this  will  help  materiallv  to  drain  and 
sweeten  the  trench,  and  farm-yard  manur#  road  sweep- 
ings, and  wood  ashes  will  help  to  lighten  the  top  spits, 
adding  bone  meal  as  recommended  above.  ^ 

While  on  the  subject  of  trenching,  we  ought  to  ex- 
plain that  where  the  Sweet  Peas  are  to  be  planted  in 
rows  the  trench  should  be  taken  out  at  least  two  feet 
wide  and  the  rows  should  be  five  feet  apart. 

As  soon  as  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground  in  early 
spring  and  the  soil  is  in  a  nice,  dry  condition,  the  rows 
should  have  a  fairly  heavy  coating  of  superphosphate 
of  lime  (acid  phosphate),  which  can  be  forked  or  raked 
into  the  soil  and  all  made  ready  for  planting.  Care 
should  be  taken  that  the  soil  is  not  too  loose,  as  in  this 
condition  it  would  be  apt  to  dry  up  quickly  during  the 
summer;  therefore,  if  it  is  loose  and  open,  get  it  con- 
solidated by  forking  and  treading,  but  do  not  attempt 
to  work  the  trench  until  it  is  quite  dry.  [/ 

Soils  deficient  in  lime  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  a 
good  dusting  of  fresh  lime  put  on  in  the  early  spring, 
using  it  as  soon  as  slaked.  On  ground  that  has  been 

12 


SOWING   AND    PLANTING 


heavily  manured  for  Some  years  this  application  will  be 
found  most  beneficial,  as  it  combines  with  the  organic 
matter  contained  therein,  thereby  setting  free  much 
plant  food  that  was  not  previously  available  to  the 
crops. 

Where  it  has  been  found  impossible  to  trench  the 
ground  in  the  fall,  this  operation  should  be  commenced 
as  early  as  possible  in  the  spring,  but  in  this  case  only 
oUJ,  wellrdecomposed  manure  should  be  utilized,  using 
t^one  meal  and  superphosphate  of  lime  (acid  phosphate) 
as  recommended  above. 


-  SOWING  AND  PLANTING 

'<ow 

To  those  .w&;  want  the  very  best  results  we  say  sow 
your  Sweet  Pea  seeds  in  pots.  This  should  be  done  in 
January  or  February,  according  to  location,  using  pots 
of  three  and  one-half  or  four  inches  diameter.  A 
suitable  compost  for  this  consists  of  turfy  loam,  leaf 
soil,  and  a  little  sand,  all  thoroughly  mixed.  A  little 
of  the  roughest  of  the  turf  should  be  placed  on  top  of 
the  crocks  to  insure  perfect  drainage,  afterwards  filling 
the  pot  to  within  an  inch  and  a  half  of  the  top.  Then 
put  in  an  inch  layer  of  sharp  sand  into  which  the  seed 
should  be  sunk  half  an  inch,  the  use  of  the  sand  being 
to  prevent  the  seed  rotting  ere  germinating,  as  many 
seed  so  often  do  when  sown  in  heavier  soil.  Four  seeds 
will  be  quite  sufficient  for  each  pot,  making  all  firm  and 
labeling  each  variety  as  it  is  sown.  The  pots  should  then 
be  placed  in  a  frame  or  cool  greenhouse  as  near  the 
light  as  possible,  so  that  the  growth  will  be  kept  sturdy 
and  dwarf.  The  frame  or  greenhouse  bench  on  which 
the  pots  are  to  stand  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  and 

13 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


afterwards  given  a  thorough  dusting  of  soot  or  lime  to 
kill  all  insects,  or  keep  them  at  bay.  When  the  young 
vines  are  two  or  three  inches  tall,  insert  a  few  twigs  in 
the  pots  to  keep  them  in  an  upright  position. 

After  the  first  thorough  soaking  to  settle  soil  and 
seeds,  great  care  should  be  taken  not  to  overdo  the 
subsequent  waterings,  as  in  the  event  of  sharp  frosts, 
should  the  Peas  be  in  an  unheated  structure,  there 
is  always  the  danger  of  the  young  plants  getting  frosted. 
In  severe  weather  the  careful  grower  will  always  see 
that  the  frame  is  covered  and  protected  from  night 
frosts. 

When  the  young  plants  are  well  through  the  soil, 
air  should  be  given  on  all  favorable  occasions,  and  if 
the  plants  have  been  'started  in  heat  they  should  be 
now  removed  to  a  cold  frame.  As  spring  advances 
the  sashes  should  be  entirely  removed  during  the 
brightest  part  of  the  day,  keeping  them  off  night  and 
day  as  "planting  out  time"  approaches.  According 
to  locality  and  weather  conditions  prevailing  at  the 
time,  the  young  plants  should  be  put  out  from  early 
March  to  early  May. 

One  pot  will  be  found  sufficient  to  form  a  good 
clump,  and  some  growers  favor  this  method  of  growing 
Sweet  Peas — the  ground  for  the  clump  having  been 
prepared  by  taking  out  the  soil  to  a  depth  of  about 
three  feet  by  three  feet  and  preparing  it  as  before  ex- 
plained for  the  row  system. 

When  planting  in  rows  each  potful  should  be  planted 
about  eighteen  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Place  the 
entire  ball  of  soil  with  plants  and  twigs — taking  care 
to  keep  all  intact  with  the  exception  of  loosening  the 

.4 


SOWING    OUT   OF    DOORS 


mass  of  roots  at  the  base — in  the  hole  previously  pre- 
pared for  its  reception.  If  the  plants  are  well  watered 
the  day  before  planting,  the  ball  of  soil  will  be  more 
likely  to  remain  entire  when  knocked  out  of  the  pot. 
Should  the  weather  be  very  dry  at  the  time  of  planting, 
it  may  be  found  advisable  to  give  the  newly  trans- 
planted vines  a  thorough  watering,  and  this  will  like- 
wise help  to  settle  the  soil  about  the  roots. 

A  good  ring  of  soot  (which  should  be  collected  dur- 
ing the  season  from  the  stove-pipe)  put  on  the  soil 
round  the  plants  will  now  be  of  the  greatest  possible 
benefit  in  warding  off  insects,  and  even  a  slight  dusting 
of  the  same  material  over  the  young  vines  has  been 
used  also  to  advantage. 

SOWING  OUT  OF  DOORS 

Those  who  have  not  the  conveniences — or,  perchance, 
think  it  too  much  trouble — for  the  pot  method  of 
Sweet  Pea  culture  should  sow  Jhe  seeds  as  early  in  the 
Spring  as  soil  and  weather  conditions  will  allow. 
Whether  the  ground  has  been  prepared  as  advised  in 
a  previous  chapter  or  simply  dug  over  one  spit  deep, 
the  procedure  is  the  same. 

A  small  trench  or  furrow  about  four  inches  deep 
should  be  taken  out  and  the  seed  sown  evenly,  using 
about  one  ounce  of  seed  to  a  fifteen-foot  row, — covering 
with  two  inches  of  soil.  After  covering  make  the  sur- 
face soil  fairly  firm  and  finish  all  by  putting  a  good 
dusting  of  soot  along  the  row,  as  this  will  keep  away 
birds  and  insects. 

When  the  seedlings  are  about  two  inches  high,  thin 
out  the  young  plants,  leaving  one  to  every  six  inches, 
as  this  will  be  found  quite  sufficient  to  give  you  a  good, 

15 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


thrifty  row,  allowing  the  air  and  light  to  circulate 
freely  among  the  growing  vines,  giving  more  room  to 
the  gross  feeding  and  deep  searching  roots,  the  natural 
results  being  larger  flowers,  longer  stems,  better  color, 
and  more  flowers.  As  the  young  vines  grow,  the  soil 
should  be  hoed  up  to  them  on  either  side,  thus  strength- 
ening the  plants  and  keeping  them  in  an  upright  posi- 
tion, while  the  slight  trench  thus  made  on  either  side  of 
the  row  is  of  great  benefit  when  watering  the  plants  dur- 
ing a  dry  spell,  or,  on  the  other  hand,  it  acts  as  a  natural 
drain  in  carrying  off  the  superfluous  moisture  during  a 
very  wet  period.  The  rows  should  be  staked  now,  as 
it  is  of  great  importance  that  the  young  vines  be  sup- 
ported from  their  earliest  stage,  but  this  will  be  dealt 
with  in  a  subsequent  paragraph. 

FALL  SOWING 

While  we  are  on  the  subject  of  sowing,  it  would  be  in- 
complete were  we  not  ,to  mention  Fall  sowing.  For 
early  bloom  Fall  or  Autumn  sowing  is  to  be  recom- 
mended if  your  location  is  suitable.  This  method 
is  largely  carried  out  in  many  parts  of  England  with 
best  results.  In  the  Southern  States  this  operation 
may  be  done  towards  the  end  of  September  and  during 
October,  while  for  this  locality  (Philadelphia)  we  have 
proved  that  November  and  early  December  sowings 
give  the  most  satisfactory  results.  Our  experiments  at 
FORDHOOK  FARMS  have  shown  that  Sweet  Peas  sown  in 
early  October  made  growth  about  three  inches  tall 
before  severe  weather  set  in,  and  that  subsequently  the 
plants  were  frozen  out,  while  seed  sown  in  November 
and  early  December  just  started  to  germinate  before 
frost,  and  as  there  were  no  top  growths  to  freeze,  with- 

16 


FALL    SOWING 


stood  the  Winter  and  started  away  strongly  with  the 
first  mild  weather  in  March,  the  earlier  varieties  show- 
ing flower  on  May  I5th,  while  the  ordinary  varieties  of 
grandiflora  and  Spencer  types  were  in  full  bloom  early 
in  June. 

These  experiments  in  Fall  sowing  seem  to  show 
us  that  we  ought  to  aim  at  sowing  the  seed  at  as  late 
a  date  as  possible,  that  the  seed  may  just  germinate 
previous  to  frost,  thereafter  lying  dormant  all  Winter 
and  so  be  ready  to  take  advantage  of  the  earliest  mild 
days  of  Spring,  long  before  we  could  get  on  the  ground 
to  make  early  plantings.  Give  the  rows  a  mulch  of 
strawy  litter  or  hay  as  soon  as  the  ground  freezes  hard, 
removing  it  early  in  March. 

The  advantages  of  Fall  sowings  are  early  flowering 
and,  on  account  of  slower  top  growth  in  the  early  stages, 
a  much  stronger  root  growth  which  will  carry  the  plants 
safely  through  periods  of  drought  and  so  secure  an  ex- 
tended flowering  season. 

_  Another,  and  perhaps  the  best,  method  for  fall  sow- 
ing in  this  locality,  or  in  fact  any  section  where  periods 
of  severe  frost  may  be  expected  during  the  winter 
months,  is  to  use  what  I  call  the  Sweet  Pea  frame. 

Boards  six  to  nine  inches  wide  are  placed  on  edge 
lengthways,  eight  or  nine  inches  apart  along  either  side 
of  the  row  of  Sweet  Peas,  holding  them  together  with 
small  braces  of  wood  and  make  ends  tight  with  a  piece 
of  board  to  fit  the  opening,  as  shown  in  the  accompany- 
ing illustration.  Glass  is  laid  along  the  top  of  the  frame, 
and  may  be  fastened  with  string  to  hold  it  in  position, 
or  special  slots  made  in  the  boards  into  which  the  glass 
fits. 

When  using  this  frame  the  seed  should  be  sown  about 
17 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


When  the  soil  freezes  solidly  cover  the  rows  with  coarse  manure  or 
litter  as  shown  in  the  above  photograph  taken  at  FORDHOOK  FARMS  late 
in  December. 


Another  method  qf  protecting  fall  sown  Sweet  Peas  and  one  which 
will  give  the  planter  earlier  flowers. 

18 


STAKING   AND   TRELLISING 


six  weeks  before  severe  freezing  weather  may  be  ex- 
pected. In  this  section  where  this  method  is  used  the 
correct  date  would  be  the  middle  of  October. 

Do  not  place  the  glass  over  the  frame  until  severe 
weather  sets  in  or  during  periods  of  heavy  rains.  Pre- 
vious to  frost  the  seeds  will  have  germinated  and  the 
seedlings  be  well  above  the  ground,  and  they  should 
have  all  the  air  possible  to  harden  and  strengthen  their 
growth. 

Should  the  weather  be  extremely  severe  it  may  be 
well  to  cover  the  frame  with  burlap  or  litter,  but  if 
there  should  have  been  a  heavy  fall  of  snow  the  snow 
covering  will  be  ample  protection. 

Remove  the  glass  during  the  first  mild  days  of  Spring, 
and  in  the  course  of  a  week  or  two  the  frame  also,  though 
the  boards  will  be  a  protection  against  cold  winds. 

The  frame  may  then  be  used  to  cover  early  sowings 
of  lettuce,  beans,  etc. 

STAKING  AND  TRELLISING 
A  great  diversity  of  opinion  prevails  over  the  ques- 
tion of  the  most  suitable  material  for  staking  Sweet 
Pea  vines.  According  to  the  NATIONAL  SWEET  PEA 
ANNUAL  FOR  1907,  the  opinions  of  fifty-two  experts 
were  asked,  forty-seven  of  the  number  voting  for  sticks, 
most  of  them  regarding  hazel  brush  as  being  the  best. 
My  own  opinion  on  the  matter  is  strongly  in  favor  of 
good  twiggy  boughs  cut  in  the  late  winter  or  early 
spring,  that  they  may  be  on  the  green  side  and  so  tough 
enough  to  last  the  season.  If  boughs  are  used,  they 
ought  to  be  inserted  at  least  one  foot  in  the  soil  with  the 
tops  inclining,  if  anything,  a  little  outwards:  i.  e.,  the 

19 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


tops  of  the  boughs  should  not  meet,  as  it  is  at  this  part 
that  so  much  space  is  wanted  when  the  Peas  are  in  full 
growth,  therefore  by  inclining  your  sticks  outwards  it 
leaves  room  for  all  top  growth  and  tends  to  keep  your 
vines  in  an  upright  position.  Should  your  sticks  not 
be  twiggy  at  the  bottom,  it  will  be  found  desirable  to 
insert  a  few  short  boughs  between  the  taller  sticks 
wherever  necessary. 

Now  although  we  might  all  wish  to  stake  our  Sweet 
Peas  with  boughs,  in  the  majority  of  cases  this  is  an 
impossibility  through  our  inability  to  procure  them: 
therefore,  the  question  of  the  next  best  substitute 
arises,  and  this  is  to  be  found  in  wire  netting  of  four- 
or  six-inch  mesh.  The  initial  cost  of  this  material  is 
certainly  a  drawback  where  a  large  area  of  Sweet  Peas 
is  grown,  but  it  will  be  found  the  cheapest  in  the  long 
run,  lasting  as  it  does  for  many  years.  Netting  four 
to  six  feet  wide  will  be  found  sufficient  for  this  locality, 
but  in  cooler  sections  where  the  Sweet  Pea  vines  flourish 
as  they  do  in  our  extreme  Northern  States,  Canada, 
and  England,  this  width  may  have  to  be  doubled. 
Stakes  to  support  the  wire  netting  will  have  to  be  used, 
driving  these  twelve  or  eighteen  inches  into  the  ground. 
Some  growers  use  only  one  row  of  wire  netting,  but  we 
believe  in  the  double  row,  say  twelve  inches  apart. 
Another  method  is  the  use  of  soft,  light  jute  twine.  In 
this  case  stout  stakes  are  used,  driving  one  into  the 
ground  every  five  feet  down  the  rows  on  either  side  of 
the  Peas,  then  running  the  twine  from  stake  to  stake, 
commencing  a  few  inches  from  the  ground  with  six 
inches  between  each  length.  This  will  be  found  a  most 
economical  method  of  staking  your  Peas,  though  not 
so  satisfactory  as  boughs  or  wire  netting. 

20 


STAKING   AND   TRELLISING 


The  Rev.  W.  T.  Hutchins'  advice  on  staking,  as 
given  in  one  of  our  former  publications,  is  also  of  in- 
terest on  this  important  point  in  Sweet  Pea  culture,  and 
we  append  the  following  extracts: 

"There  are  all  degrees  of  success  in  growing  Sweet 
Peas,  and  the  answer  to  the  question  of  what  kind  of 
support  to  give  them  depends  largely  on  how  thrifty 
your  vines  are.  I  expect  my  own  vines  to  make  a 
strong  growth,  at  least  six  feet  high,  and,  besides  the 
matter  of  height,  it  is  quite  evident  that  such  a  weight 
of  vines  when  wet,  and  when  the  strain  of  a  gust  of 
wind  comes  broadside  on  them,  will  require  a  very 
strong  support.  If  you  care  for  only  moderate  success, 
smaller  bushes  or  four-foot  poultry  wire  may  be  suf- 
ficient. If  your  soil  has  neither  depth  nor  riches  and 
you  provide  a  six-foot  hedge  of  birch,  your  bushes  will 
be  more  conspicuous  than  your  Sweet  Peas.  Or,  if 
you  neglect  your  vines  and  let  them  go  to  seed,  they 
will  dry  up  when  two-thirds  grown.  Or,  if  you  plant 
them  too  thickly,  they  will  make  a  spindling  and 
shorter  growth.  You  are  the  one  to  decide  whether 
you  want  a  four-foot  or  a  six-foot  support. 

'Then,  if  you  ask  what  to  make  the  support  of, 
judging  from  most  people,  you  will  use  that  which 
comes  most  convenient. 

"Here  are  the  points  to  be  considered  in  a  support 
for  Sweet  Peas.  Grow  them  at  their  best,  and  provide 
for  both  height  and  strength,  then  allow  for  their  loose 
branching  habit,  and  give  them  width  enough  to  ramble. 
I  use  birches  entirely.  They  are  brought  to  me  in 
twelve  or  fourteen  foot  lengths,  just  as  cut  from  the 
patch,  and  from  each  I  get  one  good  stout  one  seven 
feet  high,  and  the  lighter  top  is  used  to  fill  in. 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


'They  are  less  unsightly  if  the  tops  are  clipped  to 
an  even  six-foot  level  and  the  sides  are  trimmed  suf- 
ficiently to  present  a  neat  view  from  the  end.  These 
twiggy  birches  are  a  more  natural  support,  and  in  the 
scorching  sun  do  not  heat  as  wire  will.  Of  course, 
birches  last  but  one  year,  and  should  be  procured  early 
in  the  spring,  before  their  leaves  start.  Make  ashes 
of  them  in  the  fall. 

'There  is  no  limit  to  the  style  of  trellis  that  can 
be  made,  and  they  should  be  so  made  as  to  take  apart 
easily  for  storing  away  in  the  winter.  By  painting 
the  ground  end  of  the  posts  or  uprights  with  asphaltum 
they  will  last  longer.  The  printed  designs  are  mere 
suggestions  of  what  can  be  made  cheaply  (see  page  96). 

"Keep  your  vines  green  and  growing  as  long  as  you 
can.  Good  rich  ground  and  keeping  the  pods  off  will 
do  this/' 


CULTIVATING,  MANURING  AND  WATERING 
The  liberal  use  of  the  hoe  between  the  rows  and  plants 
will  be  found  of  great  service  in  conserving  moisture 
and,  of  course,  at  the  same  time  keeping  down  the 
weeds.  Should  the  weather  set  in  very  dry  and  hot, 
a  liberal  mulching  of  manure  or  grass  should  be  given, 
extending  quits  twelve  inches  on  either  side  of  the 
plants,  and  a  thorough  watering  two  or  three  times  a 
week  will  keep  your  seedlings  on  the  move.  No  liquid 
manure  should  be  applied,  however,  until  the  first  blos- 
soms appear,  and  then  only  sparingly — or  rather  in  a 
weak  state— at  first,  alternating  the  waterings  with 
clear  water.  As  the  plants  come  into  full  flower  the 
manure  may  be  made  much  stronger. 


CULTIVATING,    MANURING   AND   WATERING 

Now,  as  to  the  kind  of  manure  to  apply.  We 
know  that  growers  of  experience  have  their  own  pet 
manures  and  mixtures,  but  the  following  may  all  be 
relied  upon.  One  of  the  least  expensive,  and  one  which 
at  the  same  time  almost  serves  a  double  purpose  by  both 
feeding  the  plant  and  acting  as  an  insecticide,  is  soot. 
Place  about  a^peck  of  soot  in  a  bag  and  let  it  dissolve 
for  a  few  hours  in  an  old  tub  or  barrel  filled  with  water. 
Guano  may  be  used  in  the  proportion  of  one  pound  to 
twenty  gallons  of  water;  or  sulphate  of  potash,  one 
ounce  to  one  gallon  of  water.  Farmyard  liquid  manure, 
used  about  the  color  of  weak  tea,  is  also  of  service; 
acid  phosphate  or  superphosphate  of  lime,  used  as  a 
liquid,  dissolving  at  the  rate  of  half  an  ounce  to  one 
gallon  of  water.  Also  sulphate  of  potash,  used  in  con- 
junction and  at  the  same  rate,  will  help  the  plants  con- 
siderably. The  majority  of  growers  consider  the  use  of 
nitrate  of  soda  dangerous  to  the  well-being  of  Sweet 
Peas,  though  I  believe  there  are  times  when  it  may  be 
used  to  advantage;  for  instance,  if  the  vines  have  a 
stunted  appearance,  and  instead  of  making  fresh  growth, 
are  at  a  stand.  In  such  a  case  I  advocate  using  nitrate 
at  the  rate  of  quarter  of  an  ounce  to  one  gallon  of  water. 
When  using  liquid  manure,  it  is  well  to  let  it  follow  a 
thorough  soaking  with  clear  water,  that  the  fertilizing 
material  may  penetrate  to  the  lowest  roots,  and  if 
possible  all  watering  should  be  done  after  the  sun  has 
gone  down,  as  this  will  to  a  great  extent  save  the  crack- 
ing of  the  soil  and  allow  the  plants  to  get  the  full  benefit 
of  the  moisture.  Spraying  the  vines  overhead  in  the 
cool  of  the  evening  will  be  found  to  benefit  the  plants 
during  a  hot,  dry  spell. 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


BUDS  DROPPING 

Where  the  plants  have  been  well  cultivated  and  heav- 
ily manured  and  the  vines  consequently  are  growing, 
vigorously,  it  sometimes  happens  that  a  large  propor- 
tion of  the  first  buds  drop  from  the  flower  stem  before 
opening.  A  sudden  change  in  the  weather  will  often 
bring  on  a  bad  attack  of  bud  dropping.  This  may  be 
due  to  heavy  rains  following  a  dry  spell,  or  low  night 
temperature,  which  naturally  causes  a  check  to  the  sap 
flow.  But  the  grower  need  not  be  alarmed  at  this, 
as  the  vines  will  soon  assume  their  natural  mode  of 
procedure,  all  buds  subsequently  opening  and  remain- 
ing on  the  stem  as  they  should  do.  Bud  dropping  is 
most  frequently  met  with  in  a  wet  season. 

WINTER   FLOWERING   SWEET    PEAS   UNDER 

GLASS 

Not  so  many  years  ago  the  winter  flowering  Sweet  Pea 
was  more  or  less  of  a  side  line  or  catch  crop  with  the 
florist — a  sort  of  "fill  in"  when  other  crops  had  failed 
or  stocks  run  short,  but  this  can  not  be  said  of  it  today, 
It  is  now  a  "regular"  in  all  markets,  and  its  place  would 
be  hard  to  fill. 

To  grow  successfully,  a  heated  greenhouse  is  indis- 
pensable, and  the  seeds  may  be  sown  on  raised  benches, 
in  pots,  or  the  solid  bed  or  border.  The  date  of  sowing 
will  depend  on  when  the  Sweet  Peas  are  wanted  to 
bloom.  The  forcing  of  winter  flowering  varieties  takes 
from  two  and  one-half  to  three  months  from  the  date 
of  planting  until  blooming,  if  started  about  the  middle 
of  August.  Later  sowings  take  rather  longer;  there- 

24 


WINTER    FLOWERING    SWEET    PEAS    UNDER   GLASS 

fore,  if  required  for  spring  cutting,  seed  should  be  sown 
early  in  November.  The  seed  may  be  sown  in  the  row 
or  started  in  small  pots  or  flats  (many  growers  prefer 
flats). 

Best  results  are  obtained  when  grown  in  solid  beds, 
though  I  have  seen  magnificent  Peas  cut  from  plants  on 
raised  benches.  They  come  into  flower  earlier  when 
grown  on  raised  benches,  but  the  quality  of  bloom  is  not 
so  fine,  nor  is  the  flowering  season  so  prolonged  as  when 
grown  in  solid  beds. 

With  the  advent  of  the  new  winter  flowering  Spen- 
cer type,  there  is  no  doubt  whatever  that  the  Sweet 
Pea  will  steadily  increase  in  popularity  and  good  prices 
will  always  be  realized  for  first  class  flowers. 

As  in  all  other  lines,  quality  counts,  therefore,  al- 
though it  is  an  easy  crop  to  grow,  a  little  extra  care 
in  soil  preparation,  attention  to  ventilation,  watering, 
etc.,  may  make  all  the  difference  between  failure  and 
success,  simply  paying  for  one's  labor  or  making  a 
substantial  profit.  Therefore  it  behooves  the  grower 
to  start  in  good  time  his  preparation  for  this  crop. 

Plants  that  will  continue  blooming  for  several 
months,  and  produce  highest  quality  flowers,  can  be 
successfully  grown  only  in  solid  beds,  and  there  must  be 
sufficient  head  room  in  the  house.  In  the  ideal  Sweet 
Pea  house  the  eaves  will  be  at  least  eight  feet  high.  If 
the  existing  soil  in  the  beds  is  in  good  heart,  it  may  be 
necessary  further  to  enrich  with  farmyard  manure,  but 
at  the  same  time  it  should  be  thoroughly  turned  over  at 
the  least  two  feet  deep.  Perfect  drainage  is  essential, 
otherwise  the  plants  may  collapse  entirely  when  in  full 
growth,  when  water  is  being  applied  freely  in  the  spring, 
due  to  root  rot.  Therefore,  according  to  the  composi- 

25 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


tion  of  the  sub-soil  it  may  be  advisable  to  break  up  the 
bottom  with  a  pick  or  even  to  add  drainage  in  the  shape 
of  clinkers,  stone,  etc.  No  hard  and  fast  rule  can  be 
laid  down  for  this,  as  it  all  depends  on  the  situation  of 
the  house,  drainage,  natural  soil  at  the  bottom  of  the 
.  bed,  etc. 

Put  in  the  manure  with  no  niggardly  hand  if  it  is 
thoroughly  rotted,  but  keep  it  well  in  the  second  spit, 
also  incorporate  fine  bone  meal  at  the  rate  of  two  ounces 
per  square  yard  and  a  little  Scotch  soot,  using  these  in 
the  top  spit.  When  all  is  finished  give  the  bed  a  dress- 
ing of  freshly  slaked  lime,  afterwards  raking  or  pointing 
it  in. 

If  there  is  any  doubt  as  to  the  perfect  condition  of 
the  soil  it  had  better  be  changed.  Use  good  fresh  loam 
of  a  medium  nature — that  is,  neither  too  heavy  nor  yet 
light  and  sandy — and  add  manure  and  fertilizers  as  sug- 
gested. The  beds  should,  where  possible,  be  prepared 
a  few  weeks  previous  to  sowing  or  planting,  that  the 
soil  may  naturally  settle. 

*$ 

SEED  SOWING 

Sow  the  seed  very  thinly — say  one  inch  apart — in 
boxes  containing  sharp  sand  only.  This  will  insure 
perfect  germination,  and  obviate  all  risk  of  seed  rotting. 
When  sowing  cover  the  seed  not  more  than  half  an  inch. 
Water  thoroughly  and  cover  with  paper  to  prevent  the 
rapid  evaporation  of  moisture.  After  having  tried  all 
plans  I  could  think  of,  I  have  proved  this  to  be  the  most 
perfect  method. 

If  some  varieties  are  slow  in  starting  it  is  a  simple 
matter  to  find  the  seed  in  the  sand,  when  they  should 

26 


SEED    SOWING 


be  chipped  and  replaced,  following  which  they  will 
very  quickly  sprout. 

When  the  seedlings  are  two  or  three  inches  high 
they  must  be  transplanted  to  their  flowering  quarters — 
care  being  taken  not  to  injure  the  roots,  setting  them 
three  to  four  inches  apart  in  the  row.  Wherever  prac- 
ticable the  rows  should  be  at  least  four  feet  apart. 

Another  method  from  which  I  have  had  excellent 
results,  is  to  make  a  two  inch  furrow  in  the  beds,  filling 
it  with  sand  into  which  the  seed  is  pressed  to  a  depth 
of  from  one  to  one  and  one-half  inches.  This  naturally 
saves  the  labor  of  transplanting.  Or  again  the  seed 
may  be  soaked  in  warm  water  for  twelve  hours — when 
on  examination  any  seed  which  shows  no  sign  of  swell- 
ing should  be  chipped,  and  all  immediately  sown. 

To  ensure  a  long  cutting  season  and  first  quality 
flowers,  a  perfect  root  growth  to  the  plant  is  essential, 
and  this  can  be  attained  only  by  keeping  the  house  as 
cool  as  possible  during  the  earlier  stages  of  growth. 
Give  ventilation  day  and  night,  so  long  as  there  is  no 
danger  of  frost.  At  this  time  a  temperature  around  40 
to  46  degrees  Fahr.  at  night — rising  10  degrees  during 
the  day — is  what  to  aim  for.  If  the  house  is  much  warmer 
the  plants  will  quickly  shoot  up  and  prematurely  pro- 
duce flowers  long  before  the  proper  root  foundation,  so 
necessary  for  the  future  well-being  of  the  plant,  is  laid. 

When  coming  into  flower  the  temperature  must  be 
gradually  raised  to  50  degrees  at  night  and  65  degrees  to 
70  degrees  during  the  day,  according  to  the  weather. 
During  cloudy  damp  weather  the  trouble  with  bud 
dropping  may  be  experienced  if  the  atmosphere  in  the 
house  becomes  laden  with  moisture.  This  is  the  time 
when  the  grower  must  be  on  the  alert,  and  it  may  be 

27 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


found  necessary  to  run  a  little  extra  heat  in  the  pipes,  at 
the  same  time  carefully  ventilating  the  house  so  that 
the  dampness  in  the  air  may  he  expelled.  But  do  not 
run  up  the  temperature  beyond  65  degrees;  when  in 
flower  and  during  bright  weather  the  day  temperature 
may  go  to  70  degrees  with  safety. 

If  stimulants  in  the  shape  of  liquid  manure  be  given 
it  must  be  done  with  caution,  for  if  applied  indiscrimi- 
nately it  may  bring  on  a  bad  case  of  bud  dropping,  es- 
pecially during  the  shorter  days.  A  light  dressing  of 
bone  meal,  pulverized  sheep  manure  or  thoroughly 
rotted  old  cow  manure  is  recommended,  and  cow  ma- 
nure as  a  diluted  liquid  is  also  safe. 

Provided  the  soil  is  fairly  moist  when  the  plants 
are  set  out,  or  the  seed  sown,  very  little  water  will  be 
required  for  some  time.  Though,  should  the  weather 
be  mild  and  warm  accompanied  by  much  sun,  it  may  be 
well  to  syringe  the  plants  each  morning,  until  it  is  ob- 
served that  they  have  commenced  to  grow  again. 

When  growing  strongly  they  must,  of  course,  be 
watered  regularly,  at  least  whenever  the  soil  shows 
signs  of  drying  out.  Do  not  water  close  up  to  the 
plants,  and  give  the  ground  a  thorough  soaking.  Al- 
ways water  in  the  early  part  of  the  day  and  only  during 
clear,  bright  weather. 

To  safeguard  the  crop  from  the  green  fly  or  pea 
louse,  the  house  should  be  fumigated  at  least  every  ten 
days,  for  should  this  pest  once  get  a  good  start  it  is 
very  difficult  to  eradicate. 

WINTER  OR  EARLY  FLOWERING  VARIETIES 
I  have  found  that  the  most  accommodating  variety 
with  regard  'to  vagaries  of  temperature  and  weather  is 

28 


WINTER   OR    EARLY    FLOWERING    VARIETIES 

Yarrawa.  It  seldom  vexes  the  grower  by  dropping 
its  buds,  while  the  flowers  are  of  great  size,  and  if  at 
all  well  grown,  are  invariably  borne  on  extra  long  stiff 
stems. 

I  am  hoping  that  all  the  seedlings  I  have  now  on  the 
way  with  Yarrawa  blood  in  them  may  prove  to  be  of 
equally  easy  culture,  for,  so  far,  no  Sweet  Pea  at  present 
on  the  market  is  so  easily  handled  as  that  fine  variety. 
Yarrawa  is  a  cream  ground  bicolor,  color  a  pleasing 
shade  of  bright  rose-pink,  wings  creamy-pink,  and  it 
was  one  of  the  best  sellers  on  the  market  during  the  past 
season. 

Another  popular  color  is  the  pink  and  white  bi- 
color— the  old  Blanche  Ferry  color — which  in  the  new 
Spencer  type  is  grand. 

There  are  now  many  hybridists  at  work  on  this  new 
type  of  Sweet  Pea,  so  we  may  safely  predict  the  intro- 
duction of  new  colors,  and  improvements  over  existing 
sorts  in  the  near  future.  In  addition  to  its  usefulness 
for  indoor  culture  it  is  now  being  grown  in  quantity  in 
the  open  in  the  sunny  South,  where,  from  sowings  made 
at  the  end  of  September  or  early  October,  it  blooms 
from  December  until  June. 

With  the  exception  of  that  fine  Australian  variety 
Yarrawa,  the  following  varieties  are  the  result  of  crosses  I 
have  been  making  at  FORDHOOK  FARMS.  I  started  this 
interesting  work  in  1909,  crossing  the  best  of  the  then 
available  Spencers  on  such  varieties  as  Burpee's  Earliest 
of  All — Burpee's  Earliest  Sunbeams — Mont  Blanc,  etc. 
Since  the  introduction  of  Yarrawa  I  have  used  it  almost 
exclusively  and  am  looking  forward  to  much  improve- 
ment in  this  most  valuable  type. 


29 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


EARLY  KING  (Burpee  1917).     Crimson  self. 
EARLY  PINK  BEAUTY  (Burpee  1917).     Light  pink  self. 
EARLY  ENCHANTRESS  (Burpee  1917).     Deep  pink. 
FORDHOOK   PINK  AND  WHITE   (Burpee    1917).     Pink 

standard,  white  wings. 

FORDHOOK  ROSE  (Burpee  1916).     Rich  rose  self. 
FORDHOOK  EARLY  SANKEY  (Burpee  1917).     White  self. 
EARLY   LOVELINESS    (Burpee    1917).     White  suffused 

pink. 

PRIMROSE  BEAUTY  (Burpee  1917).     Primrose  self. 
ROSY  MORN  (Burpee  1917).     Scarlet  and  rose. 
YARRAWA  (Yates  1912).     Rosy-pink  and  cream. 
FORDHOOK  PINK  (Burpee  1916).     Lavender  pink  self. 


GROWING  EARLY  OR  WINTER  FLOWERING 
SWEET  PEAS  IN  THE  OPEN 

The  winter  flowering  varieties  described  above,  in 
addition  to  their  usefulness  for  growing  under  glass, 
will  be  found  of  great  value  for  outdoor  culture.  In 
fact,  in  localities  where  on  account  of  extreme  heat  the 
summer  flowering  Sweet  Peas  did  not  succeed,  or  at 
best  gave  only  a  few  flowers  ere  the  vines  died  off,  this 
new  type  can  be  grown  to  perfection.. 

We  have  received  glowing  letters  in  praise  of  the 
early  flowering  varieties  from  friends  located  in  Florida 
and  other  warm  sections,  where,  from  seed  sown  in  late 
September  and  early  October,  they  have  cut  beautiful 
Sweet  Peas  for  Christmas,  while  the  vines  continued 
blooming  until  May  or  June. 

The  summer  flowering  or  original  varieties  of  Spen- 
cers sown  at  the  same  time  will  not  flower  until  April. 
Therefore,  I  recommend  with  confidence  using  the 

30 


SEED   AND    SLOW    GERMINATION 


early  flowering  varieties  in  all  tropical  or  sub-tropical 
countries,  our  Southern  States  and  other  localities  which 
are  frostless — or  almost  so.  A  little  frost  will  not  per- 
manently harm  the  Sweet  Pea,  although  it  would  spoil 
the  expanded  and  opening  flowers. 


SEED  AND  SLOW  GERMINATION 
The  majority  of  the  blue  and  lavender  colored  Sweet 
Peas  produce  small,  poor  looking  seeds  of  a  mottled 
appearance,  which  by  the  novice  may  be  regarded  as 
of  inferior  quality,  yet  it  is  simply  the  nature  of  these 
varieties  to  produce  such  seed,  and  they  are  of  as  good 
germinative  power  as  the  large,  round,  plump  seed 
which  we  find  in  the  other  colors. 

Some  seasons  Sweet  Peas  are  slow  in  germinating 
or  fail  to  do  so  altogether.  Now,  before  condemning 
the  seedsman,  it  is  well  to  find  out  where  the  fault 
lies,  and  if  the  grower  will  take  the  trouble  to  carefully 
examine  the  seed,  nine  times  out  of  ten  he  will  find  that 
although  they  are  still  perfectly  dormant  they  are  quite 
plump  and  fresh,  and  if  the  outer  coating  is  cut  with  a 
sharp  knife,  taking  care  not  to  harm  the  embryo  plant, 
he  will  find  that  in  a  few  days  they  will  germinate 
freely  and  well.  The  reason  assigned  for  this  state 
of  affairs  is  that  the  seeds  have  been  so  well  ripened — 
say  after  a  very  hot,  dry  summer — that  the  coating 
has  become  so  hard  as  to  be  quite  impervious  to  mois- 
ture. 

In  the  case  of  new  and  expensive  varieties,  many 
growers  have  now  adopted  the  method  of  cutting  all 
the  seed  ere  planting.  I  recommend  soaking  the  seed 

31 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO-  DATE 


overnight  in  warm  water.  On  examination  any 
seeds  which  show  no  sign  of  swelling  should  then  be 
chipped  as  shown  on  the  illustration. 


White  seeded  varieties  are  also  a  cause  of  much 
annoyance  at  times,  as  they  are  apt  to  rot  in  the  ground 
should  the  weather  be  wet  and  cold  after  planting. 
We,  therefore,  advise  sowing  these  rather  thicker  than 
the  dark  seeded  sorts,  and  not  so  deeply;  or,  to  hurry 
germination,  and  so  avoid  the  risk  of  them  rotting  in 
the  soil,  the  seed  should  be  soaked  in  warm  water  for 
twelve  hours  previous  to  planting,  or,  if  starting  them 
in  pots,  use  an  inch  layer  of  sand,  as  advised  on  page  12, 
this  being  the  method  1  always  use  when  planting 
scarce  and  new  varieties,  and  with  most  satisfactory 
results. 

Another  method  to  insure  perfect  germination  is  to 
soak  the  large  plump  dark  seeded  sorts  in  pure  sulphuric 
acid  for  thirty  minutes.  After  soaking,  wash  thorough- 
ly in  three  changes  of  water.  Do  not  subject  the  white 
or  small  mottled  varieties  to  the  acid,  or  if  doing  so,  it 
should  not  be  for  more  than  five  minutes. 

INSECT  PESTS  AND  BLIGHT 
THE  CUT  WORM. — This  pest  is  in  some  seasons  most 
destructive  to  the  vines  in  early  stages  of  growth,  and 

32 


INSECT    PESTS    AND    BLIGHT 


various  methods  of  combating  its  ravages  have  from 
time  to  time  been  advocated,  such  as  hand-picking, 
sowing  lettuce  beside  the  rows  of  Peas,  etc.  However, 
a  dusting  of  tobacco  powder  or  soot  will  be  found  as 
effectual  a  deterrent  to  the  mischief  caused  by  these 
worms  as  anything  you  can  try. 

RED  SPIDER  AND  GREEN  APHIS  OR  "PEA  LOUSE/' — 
These  small  injects  are  apt  to  attack  the  vines  during 
hot  and  dry  periods,  and  war  must  be  waged  against 
them  as  soon  as  they  appear  or  they  will  multiply  so 
quickly  as  to  soon  destroy  all  growth.  We  recommend 
spraying  with  whale-oil  soap  or  a  weak  solution  of 
kerosene  emulsion,  applying  it  every  third  day  until 
the  vines  are  quite  free  of  them.  Vines  that  are  kept 
growing  steadily  and  that  receive  a  spraying  of  clear 
water  occasionally  in  the  evening  are  less  liable  to  be 
attacked  by  these  pests. 

The  SWEET  PEA  BLIGHT,  as  the  writer  has  seen  it, 
appears  to  be  caused  by  drought  combined  with  shallow 
cultivation,  for  had  the  roots  been  able  to  penetrate 
the  hard  subsoil  and  reached  rich  soil,  the  plants  would 
naturally  have  kept  healthy  and  strong,  instead  of 
drying  up,  flagging,  and  becoming  yellow,  in  many 
cases  ere  they  had  even  bloomed. 

STREAK  DISEASE  (Thilavia  bassicola),  although 
so  prevalent  some  seasons  in  England,  rarely,  if  ever, 
is  to  be  met  with  in  this  section,  and  I  have  not  heard 
of  it  being  seen  in  California. 

Scientists  who  have  studied  "streak"  seem  to  have 
arrived  at  the  conclusion  that  errors  in  manuring  were 
at  the  root  of  the  evil. 

We  are  told  that  all  nitrogenous  manures  should 
be  withheld  from  the  Sweet  Pea,  for  as  it  belongs  to  the 

33 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


leguminosae  family  of  plants,  all  of  which  are  capable 
of  assimilating  the  free  nitrogen  of  the  atmosphere,  it 
is  unnatural  to  feed  it  nitrates,  as  by  so  doing  the 
nitrogen-gathering  bacteria  in  the  root  nodules  die  of 
inanition  and  the  plant  is,  therefore,  susceptible  to 
disease.  Therefore  where  disease  has  prevailed  it  is 
well  to  avoid  the  too  free  use  of  farmyard  manure. 

If  the  soil  must  have  humus,  apply  the  dung  to  the 
previous  crop,  or  use  it  only  in  a  thoroughly  rotted 
condition,  as  in  that  state  most  of  the  nitrogen  will 
previously  have  been  liberated. 

Some  experts  claim  that  the  free  use  of  sulphate  of 
potash  will  prevent  disease,  and  advocate  applying  it  at 
the  rate  of  one  pound  to  every  four  yard  run  of  row  two 
weeks  previous  to  planting  or  sowing,  forking  it  well 
into  the  ground.  Of  course,  this  must  be  done  only 
when  the  soil  is  in  a  sufficiently  dry  condition. 

Permanganate  of  potash  is  also  advocated  and  I 
have  found  much  benefit  to  follow  its  use.  Dissolve 
one  ounce  of  the  crystals  in  six  gallons  of  water,  thor- 
oughly saturate  the  soil  around  the  plants,  and  also 
spray  the  vines  at  intervals  of  six  or  seven  days. 

THE  BEST  SWEET  PEAS 

So  much  depends  on  the  personal  taste  or  fancy  of 
the  expert  that  it  would  be  absurd  to  say  arbitrarily 
that  any  set  of  varieties  were  the  very  best.  However, 
to  assist  those  who  have  not  had  an  opportunity  of 
making  comparisons,  the  following  selections  can  be  de- 
pended upon  whether  they  are  intended  for  exhibition 
purposes  or  for  garden  and  home  decoration.  My  first 
choice  is  those  marked  with  an  asterisk. 

34 


THE    BEST   SWEET    PEAS 


*Cherub Primrose  edged  rose 

*Constance  Hinton White  self 

Dainty  Spencer White  edged  rose 

Doris  Usher Salmon-pink  on  cream 

Edith  Taylor Rosy  cerise 

*Elfrida  Pearson Blush  pink 

*Fiery  Cross Fire-red  self 

*Floradale  Fairy- Primrose  self 

Florence  Nightingale Lavender 

George  Herbert Rosy  carmine 

*Hercules Deep  pink 

*Illuminator Cerise-pink  and  salmon 

King  Edward  Spencer Bright  crimson 

*King  White Pure  white 

*Margaret  Atlee Rosy  pink  on  cream 

Margaret  Madison Clear  azure  blue 

Mrs.  Cuthbertson Pink  and  white 

*Mrs.  Routzahn Apricot  and  pink 

*Nubian  or  King  Manoel  ....  Deep  maroon 
*Orchid Helio  mauve 

Queen  Victoria  Spencer Primrose  flushed  rose 

Robt.  Sydenham Orange  self 

Rosabelle Rose 

*Royal  Purple Purple  self 

Scarlet  Emperor  or 

Vermilion  Brilliant Crimson-scarlet 

Tennant  Spencer Purplish  mauve 

The  President Orange  scarlet  self 

Wedgwood Light  blue 

vvvS& 
VARIETIES  FOR  TRUCKERS  AND  MARKET  GARDENERS 

Truckers  and  market  gardeners  who  have  a  market 
for  cut  flowers  are  now  awakening  to  the  fact  that  there 
is  money  in  Sweet  Peas.  The  writer  saw  a  letter  from 
a  trucker  some  time  ago  which  stated  he  had  made 

35 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


$400.00  that  season  from  quarter  of  an  acre  of  Sweet 
Peas.  Therefore,  to  those  in  suitable  locations  this 
is  surely  encouragement  enough  to  induce  them  to 
give  these  popular  flowers  a  trial.  We  have  heard  of 
growers  sowing  their  Sweet  Peas  after  taking  off  an 
early  crop  of  vegetables,  but  would  rather  favor  the 
method  of  sowing  Sweet  Peas  on  a  free  piece  of  land 
as  early  in  the  spring  as  possible,  putting  up  the  trellising 
at  once,  and  in  the  space  between  the  rows  planting  an 
early  crop  of  lettuce,  radish,  etc.,  that  will  be  cleared 
away  before  the  Peas  come  into  flower.  This  plan 
could  be  altered  according  to  location  and  latitude,  or 
they  might  be  sown  in  the  fall;  but  what  we  would 
like  to  impress  upon  the  grower  is  that  it  is  no  use 
expecting  best  results  if  the  seed  are  sown  late  in  the 
spring,  for  to  secure  a  long  flowering  season  the  roots 
must  have  made  good  growth  before  warm  weather 
sets  in. 

As  the  best  prices  are  obtained  from  flowers  bunched 
in  one  color,  it  is  advisable  to  sow  named  varieties, 
and  if  only  six  varieties  are  wanted  to  start  with,  we 
recommend  the  following  as  being  as  good  as  any  for 
this  class  of  trade: 

Yarrawa Rose-pink  and  cream 

Nora  Unwin White 

Countess  Spencer Rich  pink 

King  Edward  Spencer Crimson 

Florence  Nightingale .......  Lavender 

Mrs.  Routzahn Cream  pink 

Or  a  more  extended  list  might  be  made  from  the 
list  given  on  page  35. 

36 


GROWING    FOR    EXHIBITION 


GROWING  FOR  EXHIBITION 
Where  the  main  object  of  the  planter  is  flowers  for  the 
exhibition  table,  more  intensive  methods  of  culture 
are  usually  carried  out.  For  instance,  if  the  rows  of 
Peas  are  grown  in  a  block,  instead  of  trenching  the 
ground  for  each  individual  row  only,  the  entire  piece  of 
ground  should  be  deeply  dug  and  thoroughly  manured, 
as  described  on  page  1 1  and  the  growths  thinned  out 
considerably;  in  fact,  only  taking  up  two  to  four  stems 
on  each  plant.  All  other  branches  or  laterals  being 
carefully  pulled  out,  not  cut  out,  as  by  adopting  the 
•latter  method  new  laterals  would  again  be  emitted  in 
the  course  of  a  few  days. 

Plant  in  double  rows,  allowing  twelve  inches 
between  the  rows,  and  in  transplanting  set  each  plant 
at  least  six  inches  apart  in  the  row.  If  the  seed  has 
been  sown  four  or  five  in  a  pot,  or  in  boxes,  care  must 
be  taken  not  to  break  or  injure  the  roots  in  any  way 
when  separating  them,  and  in  planting  do  not  cramp 
the  roots.  Spread  them  out  carefully  and  see  that  the 
hole  is  of  a  sufficient  depth  to  allow  for  the  main  root 
without  any  doubling.  As  the  growth  is  concentrated 
in  a  limited  number  of  stems  the  vines  will,  therefore, 
be  much  taller  than  when  allowed  to  grow  naturally, 
and  provision  must  be  made  for  this  when  staking. 

The  best  method  is  to  drive  stout  posts  at  the  end 
of  each  double  row,  to  which  nail  two  or  three  cross 
pieces,  the  first  eighteen  inches  wide,  attached  about 
nine  inches  from  the  ground,  the  center  pieces  twelve 
inches  wide,  and  the  top  cross  piece  nine  inches.  Stout 
wires  are  then  strained  horizontally  along  both  sides  of 
the  row  from  the  cross  pieces.  Long  stakes  or  bamboos 

37 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


Reproduction  of  a  photograph  received  from  Percy  A.  Brightman, 
Newport,  R.  I.,  which  illustrates  the  Cordon  system  as  explained  on 
pages  37  to  40  inclusive. 


GROWING    FOR    EXHIBITION 


are  now  put  flat  against  the  wires,  to  which  they  must 
be  securely  tied.  The  height  of  all  will  naturally 
depend  on  what  section  of  the  country  the  grower 
resides.  For  instance,  in  our  northern  states  and 
Canada  the  vines  may  be  expected  to  run  from  ten  to 
twelve  or  more  feet  in  height,  while  further  south  six 
to  eight  feet  may  be  sufficient,  and  much  will  of  course 
depend  on  the  season. 

It  will  be  observed  that  by  the  above  arrangement 
the  tops  slope  inward,  the  reason  being  that  when 
grown  by  this  intensive  method,  each  stem  is  ultimately 
brought  to  the  outside  of  the  stakes,  to  which  they  must 
be  carefully  tied  as  growth  proceeds. 

Do  not  thin  out  the  stems  until  the  plants  are  at 
least  twelve  inches  high,  but  be  careful  that  they  are 
kept  upright  during  all  stages  of  growth,  as  when  they 
are  allowed  to  sprawl  along  the  ground  they  run  the 
risk  of  being  trampled  upon  or  twisted  and  injured  by 
wind,  and  it  is  in  the  earlier  days  that  the  welfare  of  the 
plants  must  be  most  carefully  guarded  if  success  is  to 
be  obtained. 

In  training  the  shoots  they  should  be  at  least  four 
inches  apart,  according  to  the  space  at  disposal. 

On  the  approach  of  warm  weather  do  not  omit  to 
give  the  plants  a  good  mulch  of  strawy  farmyard 
manure,  and  follow  immediately  with  a  thorough  soak- 
ing of  water. 

In  applying  water  throughout  the  season  the  grower 
will  be  guided  by  weather  and  soil  conditions,  but  the 
plants  must  not  be  allowed  to  suffer  for  lack  of  moisture. 
On  no  account  give  water  in  driblets — either  a  thorough 
soaking  or  none  at  all.  On  light  porous  soils  water  may 
safely  be  given  during  a  dry  spell  at  least  twice  a  week, 

39 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


and  on  heavier  and  more  retentive  soils  once  a  week. 
When  flowers  appear  liquid  manures  should  also  be 
used,  but  given  rather  weak  to  begin  with.  Sheep  or 
cow  manure,  made  by  steeping  it  in  a  tub  or  barrel,  or 
taken  from  the  farm  cesspool  and  well  diluted,  will  be 
found  excellent,  and  this  may  be  changed  occasionally 
for  artificials.  Superphosphate  (acid  phosphate),  one 
ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water.  Sulphate  of  potash, 
nitrate  of  potash,  half  an  ounce  to  a  gallon  of  water. 
Nitrate  of  soda  should  be  given  only  if  the  plants  re- 
quire a  special  "pick  me  up"  towards  the  end  of  the 
season. 

To  give  flowers  extra  fine  color  I  believe  there  is 
nothing  to  surpass  soot  (the  real  Scotch  imported 
soot  may  now  be  obtained  from  many  establish- 
ments). 

In  showery  weather  it  may  be  dusted  along  the 
soil  on  both  sides  of  the  plants,  or  used  as  a  liquid 
manure  as  advised  on  page  23. 


EXHIBITING  SWEET  PEAS 
Intending  exhibitors  must  keep  the  blooms  hard  cut 
from  the  vines  until,  say,  four  days  previous  to  the 
date  of  the  show,  and  all  varieties  that  are  likely  to 
scald  with  the  sun  should  be  shaded  with  cheese-cloth 
or  other  light  material,  as  in  close  competition  a  single 
scorched  flower  might  make  all  the  difference  between 
a  first  or  second  prize.  Do  not  erect  the  shading  until 
three  days  previous  to  the  date  the  flowers  are  required, 
and  remove  it  immediately  after  cutting,  as  continued 
shading  rapidly  weakens  the  plant. 

Varieties  that  have  orange  in  their  colorings  (such 
40 


EXHIBITING   SWEET   PEAS 


as  Stirling. Stent,  Thos.  Stevenson,  Helen  Lewis),  the 
scarlets,  and  the  blues,  should  all  be  protected.  The 
blooms  should  be  cut  at  the  last  possible  minute, 
choosing  whenever  practicable  the  early  morning  or 
the  evening,  putting  the  flowers  immediately  into  water 
and  placing  in  a  cool  room  or  cellar  until  packed.  Pick 
only  young,  -fresh  blooms  with'  the  last  flower  just 
open  or  in  the  opening  stage,  as  should  you  be  cutting 
the  day  previous  to  the  show,  it  will  be  fully  expanded 
by  the  time  the  judges  come  around.  Cut  with  as  long 
stems  as  possible.  The  ideal  spray  should  have  a 
stem  of  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  long,  with  four  good 
flowers  on  it.  Therefore,  aim  at  the  ideal.  If  the 
flowers  are  wet  when  cut  they  must  be  put  very  thinly 
in  vases  and  placed  in  a  room  where  there  is  a  little 
heat,  but  through  which  a  current  of  air  is  playing  that 
they  may  dry  off  ere  being  packed,  for  if  they  are  at  all 
moist  when  packed  for  travelling,  the  flowers  will, 
when  unpacked,  be  found  to  be  discolored  and  spotted 
and  many  of  the  blooms  will  drop  from  the  stems. 

In  staging  the  flowers  never  crowd  them.  Let 
every  flower  "speak  for  itself."  Twenty  sprays  make 
a  nice  vase,  and  the  best  method  of  arranging  them  is 
to  start  by  putting  some  stiff  grass  or  reeds  (cut  two 
inches  long)  in  the  mouth  of  the  vase,  as  this  helps  to 
keep  the  stems  in  position.  Each  stem  must  be  put  in 
separately.  Let  every  flower  be  seen  as  far  as  possible 
and  all  face  one  way,  with  the  exception  of  such  varieties 
as  have  the  back  of  the  standards  tinted  in  coloring 
other  than  the  ground  color  of  the  flower,  when  the 
position  of  such,  might  be  judiciously  varied.  One  or 
two  pieces  of  foliage — a  little  Gypsophila — or  light 
grass,  such  as  Agrostis  Nebulosa,  might  with  advantage 

41 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


be  used.  But  this  should  not  be  overdone,  and  only  if 
the  rules  allow  of  it. 

In  staging  a  collection  of  twelve  varieties,  they 
should  be  stood  in  three  rows,  the  back  rows  being 
tiered  eight  or  nine  inches  above  the  other,  and  arrange 
the  colors  so  that  they  do  not  clash.  Even  if  the  show 
schedule  does  not  ask  for  it,  name  each  variety  with 
a  neat  card  placed  at  the  base  of  each  vase. 

During  very  hot  or  stormy  weather,  some  exhibitors 
cut  their  flowers  in  the  bud  stage  or  partly  open  and 
allow  them  to  fully  expand  in  water,  adding  about 
a  quarter  of  an  ounce  of  sulphate  of  iron  to  three 
gallons  of  water.  Some  colors,  such  as  the  light  blues, 
mauves  and  lavenders  improve  very  much  in  color  by 
this  method,  but  the  salmon  orange  and  crimson 
colored  varieties  lose  much  of  their  beauty  when  cut 
for  long  before  they  are  required. 


SWEET  PEAS  FOR  TABLE  AND  OTHER 

DECORATIONS 

Few  flowers  lend  themselves  so  readily  to  the  deco- 
rator's art  as  does  the  fragrant  Sweet  Pea.  They 
require  no  wiring  or  stiffening  of  the  stem — once  they 
are  cut,  they  are  ready  for  the  deft  fingers  to  create 
charming  effects  for  any  purpose. 

Pretty  effects  may  be  had  by  associating  two  colors 
that  harmonize,  though  perhaps  nothing  is  daintier 
than  a  table  decorated  with  one  variety  only — say, 
the  beautiful  Countess  Spencer.  A  lovely  combination 
may  be  obtained  by  using  Barbara  or  Stirling  Stent  with 
Queen  Victoria  Spencer  or  Primrose  Spencer,  or  a 
crimson  and  a  yellow,  and  Orchid  in  conjunction  with 

42 


SWEET   PEAS    FOR   TABLE    DECORATION 

a  rich  cream  pink,  and  Illuminator  with  a  rich  primrose 
variety — all  form  most  charming  color  harmonies. 
Lavender  and  blue  Sweet  Peas  look  dull  under  artificial 
light,  though  very  pleasing  at  other  times.  Or,  again, 
various  shades  of  pink,  from  light  to  dark,  form  a 
beautiful  color  scheme. 

In  arranging  the  flowers  let  all  be  as  light  and  airy 
looking  as  possible;  never  jam  the  sprays  closely 
together;  strive  to  let  every  flower  be  seen.  Allow 
a  few  flowers  to  stand  well  above  the  others,  which 
tends  to  give  all  a  natural  appearance.  A  few  sprays 
of  colored  lycopodium  allowed  to  trail  over  the  sides 
of  the  receptacles  and  arranged  on  the  table,  or  sprays 
of  asparagus,  smilax  or  other  light  greenery,  all  help 
the  general  effect,  while  light  grasses  and  a  little  of 
their  own  foliage  inserted  among  the  flowers  will  lend 
grace  and  elegance  to  the  arrangement — if  not  overdone. 


THE  "SPENCER"  TYPE  OF  SWEET  PEAS 
The  introduction  of  Countess  Spencer  in  1904  will 
be  marked  as  creating  a  new  era  in  the  Sweet  Pea 
world.  This  most  lovely  of  pink  Sweet  Peas  is  of 
immense  size,  and  the  forerunner  of  quite  a  new  type. 
Previous  to  the  Countess  Spencer  appearing,  our  Sweet 
Peas  were  either  of  hooded  standard  or  expanded 
upright  standard  forms.  Countess  Spencer  was  the 
first  to  appear  with  beautifully  frilled  and  wavy  stand- 
ard and  wings,  of  immense  size — but,  alas!  it  was  not 
fixed  to  type,  as  it  sported  very  badly.  This  sportive 
character,  however,  has  proved  really  a  blessing  in 
disguise,  as  so  many  of  the  sports  were  of  quite  new 
shades,  at  the  same  time  containing  all  the  parents' 

43* 


SWEET   PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


characteristic  form  and  size.  All  would  have  been 
right  had  the  various  seed-growers  not  been  in  such  a 
hurry  to  rush  those  unfixed  sports  upon  the  market, 
much  to  the  disgust  of  many  amateur  growers. 

A  peculiarity  about  the  "Spencer"  sports  is  that 
they  generally  come  in  duplicate:  i.  e.,  the  same 
color  in  Spencer  and  grandiflora  types.  Take,  for 
instance,  Helen  Lewis  and  John  Ingman:  with  Helen 
Lewis  sport  there  was  also  a  very  large  grandiflora 
sport  of  the  same  color,  similar  in  appearance  to  Lady 
Mary  Currie,  and  with  John  Ingman  appeared  a  variety 
of  much  the  same  color,  but  also  of  grandiflora  type. 
The  result  was  that  both  were  saved,  and  as  the  old 
type  is  so  much  more  prolific  in  seed-bearing,  the  result 
became  worse  instead  of  even  remaining  stationary. 
However,  observant  growers  are  now  becoming  more 


KING  WHITE.    Engraved  from  a  Photograph. 
'  44 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


careful  in  the  saving  and  roguing  of  their  stocks,  so 
that  in  the  future  we  may  hope  for  better  results  from 
new  colors  of  the  Spencer  type. 

Much  has  been  written  on  the  sportiveness  of  Count- 
ess Spencer  and  its  seedlings,  some  growers  affirming 
that  it  is  caused  by  small  insects,  others  that  the  bee 
is  supposed  to  split  the  calyx  or  keel  and  so  carry  the 
pollen  to  otHer  varieties;  others  again  explain  how  the 
pistils  in  some  flowers  are  enlarged  and  come  out 
through  the  keel,  and  so  are  in  a  position  to  catch  the 
pollen  from  other  varieties;  but  it  is  a  question  how 
any  of  these  theories  can  be  established,  as  it  is.  a  rec- 
ognized fact  that  fertilization  has  been  effected  ere 
the  flower  opens. 


LIST  OF  SPENCER  SWEET  PEAS 
The  following  includes — so  far  as  we  know — all  varieties 
introduced  up  to  1917,  and  although  the  majority  of 
them  will  never  become  popular,  a  description  of  these 
later  introductions  doubtless  will  be  of  interest  to  Sweet 
Pea  enthusiasts.  We  have  tested  practically  every 
variety  as  it  was  introduced,  and  are  now  offering  only 
those  which  in  our  opinion  are  of  superior  merit,  full 
particulars  of  which  will  be  found  in  "  Burpee's  Annual." 

A.  B.  BANTOCK.     (Baker's,  1910.)     Creamy  buff  and  pink, 

shaded  amber. 
A.  N.  DICKSON.     (Breadmore,  1911.)     Rosy-lilac  with  purple 

wings. 

A.  A.  FABIUS.     (Alsen,  1910.)     Glowing  rose. 
ADELAIDE.      (Dobbie,    1917.)     This   was   originally   named 

Anzac.     Standard  rich  purple.     Wings  electric-blue. 


45 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


AFTERGLOW.     (Bolton,    1911.)     Reddish-mauve  with  violet 

wings. 

AGGIE  ELDER.     (Breadmore,  1913.)     Similar  to  Decorator. 
AGNITA.     (Cautley,   1912.)     White,  flushed  lilac. 
AGRICOLA.     (Bolton,  1913.)     White,  flushed  soft  lilac. 
AITKEN'S  CARMINE.     (Aitken,    1914.)     Light  carmine  rose. 
ALFRED  WATKINS.     (Dobbie,  1915.)     Clear  lavender-blue. 
ALBERT  GILBERT.     (Gilbert,    1910.)     Rose  self,   similar  to 

Marie  Corelli. 

ALPHA.     (Breadmore,   1912.)     Pale  lilac  self. 
ALTHORP  CREAM.    (Cole,  1910.)     Similar  to  Primrose  Spencer. 
ALTHORP  WHITE.     (Cole,  1910.)     Similar  to  White  Spencer. 
AMBER.     (Aldersey  and  Jones,  1913.)     Rich  salmon  rose. 
AMERICA  SPENCER.     (Burpee,   1910.)     Red  flaked  on  white 

ground. 

AMETHYST.     (Aldersey,   1910.)    Violet  blue. 
ANDREW  AITKEN.     (Bolton,   1913.)     Soft  salmon. 
ANGLIAN    BRILLIANT.     (King,    1914.)     Coppery-red. 
ANGLIAN  CREAM.     (King,  1915.)     Intense  cream  self. 
ANGLIAN  CRIMSON.     (King,  1910.)     Crimson  self. 
ANGLIAN  FAIRY.     (King,  1913.)     Light  lemon,  suffused  pale 

copper. 

ANGLIAN   LAVENDER.     (King,    1911.)     Deep  lavender,   suf- 
fused pink. 

ANGLIAN  ORANGE.     (King,  1911.)     Salmon-pink. 
ANGLIAN     PINK.     (King,     1911.)     Salmon-pink    on    cream 

ground.     Similar  to  Miriam  Beaver. 
ANGLIAN  ROYAL.     (King,   1914.)     Crimson-lake. 
ANNABEL    LEE.     (Alsen,    1913.)     Rosy-mauve.     Similar   to 

Irish  Belle. 
ANNA  LUMLEY.     (Lumley,  1909.)     Synonymous  with  Othello 

Spencer. 
ANNIE  BOWNASS.     (Dickson,   1917.)     White,  suffused  pink 

and  amber. 

ANNIE  SCULPHER.     (Deal,  1913.)     Salmon-cerise. 
ANNIS   GIBSON.     (Breadmore,    1912.)     Purplish-mauve. 

46    ' 


'SPENCER"  VARIETIES 


APPLE  BLOSSOM  SPENCER.     (Burpee,  1908.)     Rose  and  blush. 

APRIL.     (Dipnall,  1913.)     Blue  flake  on  white  ground. 

ARIEL.     (Dipnall,  1915.)     White  suffused  blush-pink. 

ARTHUR  GREEN.     (Dobbie,  1911.)     Bronzy-brown  with  vio- 
let wings. 

ARTHUR   UNWIN.     (Unwin,    1910.)     Salmon-rose  with   buff 
wings. 

ASHANTEE.    tStark,  1912.)     Reddish  maroon. 

ASTA  OHN.     (Morse,   1909.)     Charming  soft  lavender,  suf- 
fused mauve. 

ATTRACTION.     (King,  1916.)     Light  shell-pink. 

AUDREY   CRIER.     (Breadmore,    1908.)     A   lovely   shade   of 
salmon  pink,  of  the  largest  size  and  finest  form. 

AURORA    SPENCER.     (Burpee-Morse,    1909.)     Cream    white 
ground;  exquisitely  flaked  and  mottled  rich  orange  salmon, 

AUSTIN  FREDERICK.     (Woodcock,   1911.)     Pale  lavender.    \ 

AVALANCHE.     (Lumley,  1912.)     White  self. 

BARBARA.     (Holmes-Sydenham,  1912.)     Salmon-orange  self. 

BEATRICE  SPENCER.     (Morse,  1909.)     Soft  pink  and  buff. 

BEAUTY.     (Bolton-Sharpe,    1908.)     A   blush   pink  Spencer. 
Similar  to  Florence  Morse  Spencer. 

BELLONA.     (Dipnall,  1917.)     Dark  rich  scarlet. 

BEND  OR.     (Aldersey,  1912.)     Salmon  standard,  rose  wings. 

BERTHA  MASSEY.     (Bide,  1911.)     Rosy-lilac  self. 

BERTIE    USHER.     (Usher,    1912.)     Violet    flake    on    white. 
Similar  to  Loyalty. 

BERTRAND  DEAL.     (Deal,  1910.)     Rosy-mauve  self. 

BERYL.     (Aldersey,  1913.)     Creamy-pink  self.     Very  similar 
to  Lilian. 

BERYL.     (Dickson,  1917.)     A  soft  salmon-pink. 

BETTY.     (Dobbie,   1912.)     Purplish-mauve. 

BETTY  CAUTLEY.     (Cautley,  1911.)     Peach,  shaded  salmon. 

BIRDBROOK.     (Bolton,  1913.)     Maroon  flake  on  white. 

BIRD  OF  PARADISE.    (Hemus,  1912.)    A  Helen  Pierce  Spencer. 

BLACK    KNIGHT    SPENCER.      (Stevenson,    1910.)      Shining 
maroon. 

47 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


BLANCHE  FERRY  SPENCER.  (Ferry,  1910.)  Standard  rose- 
pink.  Wings  blush. 

BLUE  FLAKE  SPENCER.     (Box,  1912.)     Blue  flake  on  white. 

BLUE  JACKET.     (Stark,  1912.)     Deep  navy  blue. 

BLUE  KING.     (Bide,  1913.)     Dark  blue. 

BLUE  PICOTEE.     (Dobbie,  1914.)     White  edged  violet. 

BLUE  BELL  SPENCER.     (Stark,  1916.)     A  real  true  blue. 

BLUE  GEM.     (Watkins  and  Simpson,  1916.)     Clear  mid-blue. 

BLUE  MONARCH.     (Stark,  1915.)     Rich  navy  blue  self. 

BLUSH  SPENCER.     (King,  1909.)     White  suffused  blush  pink. 

BOADICEA.     (Bolton,  1915.)     Light  pink,  suffused  mauve. 

BOBBIE  K.  (Chandler-Unwin,  1908.)  A  pale  pink  Spencer. 
Similar  to  Florence  Morse  Spencer. 

BOLTON'S  ORANGE.     (Bolton,  1915.)     This  is  very  similar  to 

i    Robert  Sydenham. 

BOLTON'S  SCARLET.     (Bolton,  1913.)     Light  scarlet  self. 

BREADMORE'S  FRILLED  CREAM.  (Breadmore,  1913.)  Deep 
cream  self. 

BREADMORE'S  LAVENDER.  (Breadmore,  1909.)  (Lavender 
George  Herbert.)  A  lavender  Spencer. 

BRILLIANT  SPENCER.  (Stark,  1916.)  Crimson  standard; 
wings,  rosy-carmine. 

BROOKLAND'S  QUEEN.  (Deal,  1914.)  Salmon-pink  standard, 
blush  wings. 

BRUNETTE.     (Malcolm-Dobbie,  1913.)     Mahogany  self. 

BURGUNDY.     (Stark,  1913.)     Rich  wine  self. 

BUTTERCUP.     (Lumley,   1910.)     Cream  self. 

CAIRNGORM.     (Aldersey,  1912.)     White,  flushed  blue. 

CAMBRIDGE  BLUE.     (Holmes,  1914.)     A  light  blue  self. 

CAPTAIN  OF  THE  BLUES  SPENCER.  (Morse,  1909.)  Purplish- 
maroon.  Wings  purple.  Similar  to  Waverley. 

CAPTAIN  H.  TRAVERS.  (Agate,  1913.)  Bright  salmon  self. 
Very  similar  to  Stirling  Stent. 

CAPTIVATION  SPENCER.  (Morse-Burpee,  1912.)  Rich  rosy 
wine-red. 

CATHERINE  LUMLEY.     (Lumley,  1910.)     Orange  with  pink. 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


CECIL  CRIER.     (Breadmore,   1907.)     A  deep  rosy-pink. 

CERISE    PARADISE.     (Hemus,    1910.)     Similar   to   Coccinea 
Spencer. 

CERISE  SPENCER.     (Holmes-Sydenham,  1913.)     A  large  cer- 
ise self. 

CHARITY.     (Stevenson,   1917.)     Rich  brilliant  crimson. 

CHARLES    FOSTER.     (Bolton,    1911.)     Pastel    pink,    shaded 
lavender. 

CHARLES   HEMUS.     (Hemus,    1910.)     Light  maroon  or  ma- 
hogany, small. 

CHARLIE    IRVING.     (Breadmore,    1910.)     Orange-salmon. 

CHARM.     (Burpee,   1913.)     Blush,  shaded  pale  lilac. 

CHASTITY.     (Bath,  1912.)     Large  waved  blush. 

CHEERFUL.     (Bolton,   1916.)     Light  apricot  and  mauve  on 
cream  ground. 

CHERUB.     (Malcolm-Burpee,  1916.)     Rich  cream,  edged  rose. 

CHERRY  RIPE.     (Gilbert,  1909.)     Cerise  self,  similar  to  Coc- 
cinea Spencer. 

CHILTON.     (Clark,    1909.)     Pale  salmon-pink  Spencer. 

CHOCOLATE.     (Aldersey,   1912.)     Dark  chocolate  self. 

Cis  WRIGHT.     (Wright,    1916.)     Light   cream   pink,   tinted 
lilac. 

CLARA  CURTIS.     (Bolton,  1908.)     Primrose  colored  Spencer. 
Synonymous  with  Primrose  Spencer. 

CLARK'S  DUCHESS.     (Clark,  1909.)     Deep  salmon. 

CLARK'S   QUEEN.     (Clark,    1909.)     Cream   shaded   towards 
edges  of  petals  with  deep  pink. 

CLIMAX.     (Woodcock,   1914.)     Rich  carmine-rose. 

COCCINEA  PARADISE.     (Hemus,  1910.)     Cerise  self,  similar  to 
Coccinea  Spencer. 

COCCINEA  SPENCER.     (Breadmore,    1911.)     Bright  cerise. 

CODSALL  ROSE.     (Baker,  1906.)     A  deep  rose. 

COLLEEN.     (W.  Deal,  1910.)    Carmine  standard,  wings  blush. 

COLONEL  LARNER  CLARKE.    (Alsen,  1910.)    Purplish  maroon. 

COMET.     (Hemus,  1912.)     Rosy-pink,  deeper  at  edges. 

COMMANDER  HUMPHREY.     (Cole,  1911.)     A  rich  puce. 

49 


SWEET   PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


CONSPICUOUS.     (Malcolm,   1915.)     A  fine  maroon  self. 

CONSTANCE  ACOMB.     (Holmes,    1916.)     Creamy-white,  suf- 
fused mauve. 

CONSTANCE  CHAMPION.     (Bide,    1916.)     Soft  cerise-salmon. 

CONSTANCE    HINTON.     (Hinton-Wheeler,     1914.)     A    black, 
seeded  white. 

CONSTANCE  OLIVER.     (Lumley,   1908.)     Delicate  pink,  suf- 
fused with  cream.     Similar  to  Nell  Gwynne. 

CONTRAST.     (Bath,  1910.)     Blue  and  purple,  edged  white. 

CORAL.     (Aldersey,   1910.)     Bright  pink. 

CORAL  GEM.     (J.  K.  King,  1916.)     Cream  pink  self. 

CORONATION.     (Bolton,    1912.)     Apricot,   flushed   pink,   on 
cream  ground. 

COUNTESS  OF  ANCASTER.     (Gilbert,  1910.)     Deep  plum  self. 

COUNTESS    OF    NORTHBROOK.     (Breadmore,     1909.)     Large 
pale  pink. 

COUNTESS  SPENCER.     (Sydenham-Cole,  1904.)     A  lovely  pale 
pink.     The  original  "  Spencer/' 

CCERULEA.     (Faulkner  and  Aikens,  1913.)     Blue,  with  mauve 
tint  in  standard. 

COWRIE.     (Aldersey,  1910.)     Bright  pink  self. 

CREAM  PARADISE.     (Hemus,   1909.)     Light  primrose  self. 

CRIMSON  GIANT.     (Deal,  1913.)     Bright  crimson  self. 

CRIMSON  PARADISE.     (Hemus,  1908.)     Crimson.     Similar  to 
King  Edward  Spencer. 

CRIMSON  QUEEN.     (Hobbie,  1916.)     Crimson  self. 

CROMWELL.     (Bolton,  1913.)     White,  flaked  violet -mauve. 

CRYSTAL.     (Aldersey,  1912.)     White,  flushed  pale  rose. 

CYNTHIA.     (Ward,   1912.)     Pink  on  cream  ground.     Some- 
what in  way  of  Mrs.  Hugh  Dickson. 

CYRIL  UNWIN.     (Unwin,   1912.)     Maroon  and  violet. 

DAINTY  SPENCER.     (Bath,  1909.)     See  Elsie  Herbert,   with 
which  it  is  synonymous. 

DAISY.     (Gilbert,  1912.)     Pink  self,  white  ground. 

DAZZLER.     (Breadmore,     1910.)     Bright     glowing    orange- 
scarlet. 

50 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


DECORATOR.     (Dickson-Burpee,    1913.)     A    Rose   du   Barri 

Spencer. 

DELIGHT.     (Deal,  1914.)     Similar  to  Decorator. 
DICK  BIDE.     (Bide,  1916.)     Amaranth-red. 
DISTINCTION.     (Bath,  1910.)     Similar  to  Dainty  Spencer. 
DOBBIE'S  CREAM.     (Dobbie,    1912.)     Primrose  self. 
DOBBIE'S  SCARLET.     (Dobbie,  1913.)     Bright  scarlet  self. 
DOBBIE'S    ORANGE.     (Dobbie,    1915.)     Similar    to    Robert 

Sydenham. 
DOBBIE'S  TRUE  LAVENDER.     (Dobbie,  1913.)     Pale  blue  self. 

Similar  to  Margaret   Madison. 
DODWELL  F.  BROWN.     (Eckford,  1909.)     Crimson. 
DON  ALVAR.     (Bolton,  1915.)     A  large  pure  lavender. 
DORA.     (Dobbie,    1917.)     Cream,   standard   deep   rose-pink 

and  salmon. 

DORIS  BURT.     (Unwin,   1910.)     Crimson-scarlet  self. 
DORIS  CLAYTON.     (Breadmore,  1909.)     Lavender. 
DoRisUsHER.    (Usher-Sutton,  191 1.)    Pink  on  cream  ground. 
DOROTHY.     (Bolton,     1912.)     Rosy-lilac    self.     Similar    to 

Irish  Belle. 
DOROTHY    HARLAND.     (Bide,    1910.)     Pale   salmon,    cream 

ground. 

DOROTHY  LEES.     (Lees-Sutton,  1913.)     French  gray  self. 
DOUGLAS  UNWIN.     (Unwin,  1910.)     Maroon  self. 
DRAGONFLY.     (Aldersey,     1913.)     Lavender    and    rose    on 

cream  ground. 

DUCHESS  OF  PORTLAND.     (Dobbie,  1915.)     Cream-pink,  suf- 
fused apricot. 
DUPLEX  CREAM.     (Morse,   1913.)     Cream  self  with  double 

standards. 
DUPLEX  HELEN  WILLIAMS.     (Stark,  1917.)     Color  similar  to 

Cherub. 
DUPLEX  MAGGIE  STARK.     (Stark,  1913.)     Rich  orange  with 

double  standards. 
DUPLEX  MAUVE.     (Hobbie's,  1916.)     A  large  duplex  mauve 

self. 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


DUPLEX  SCARLET.     (Stark,  1914.)     A  double  crimson-scarlet. 
DUPLEX   SPENCER    (Dobbie-Burpee,    1912.)     Rich   pink   on 

cream  ground. 

DUSKY   MONARCH.     (Breadmore,    1910.)     Dark  purple-ma- 
roon. 

EARL  CROMER  SPENCER.     (Bide,  1910.)     Crimson-lake. 
EARL  OF  CHESTER.     (Ward,   1910.)     Orange. 
EARL  OF  LOVELACE.     (Sutton,  1913.)     A  Duplex  white. 
EARL  OF  PLYMOUTH.     (Baker,   1909.)     Buff-colored  self. 
EARL  SPENCER.     (Cole,    Dobbie,    1910.)     A   waved   Henry 

Eckford. 

EASTERN  .QUEEN.     (Cross,  1913.)     Pale  watered  blue. 
E.  C.  MATTHEWS.     (Jones,  1907.)     Velvety  maroon. 
EDITH.     (House,   1912.)     In  the  way  of  Helen  Grosvenor, 

with  double  standards. 

EDITH  KING.     (Unwin,  1914.)     Blue  veined  on  white  ground. 
EDITH    TAYLOR.     (Holmes-Sydenham,    1912.)     Salmon-rose 

self. 

EDNA  HARLAND.     (Bide,  1911.)     Carmine-pink. 
EDNA  MAY.     (Woodcock,  1912.)     White  self. 
EDNA   TURNER.     (Dipnall,    1911.)     Cream-pink. 
EDNA  UNWIN.     (Unwin,  1910.)     Orange-scarlet. 
EDROM     BEAUTY.       (Malcolm-Dobbie,      1911.)      Standard 

orange,  wings  rosy-salmon.     Similar  to  Helen  Lewis. 
EDWARD  COWDY.     (Unwin,    1915.)     Fiery  orange-scarlet. 
E.  J.  DEAL.     (Johnson,  1910.)     White,  edged  rosy  carmine. 

Similar  to  Elsie  Herbert. 

ELAINE.     (Hemus,  1910.)     Standard  mauve,  wings  white. 
ELECTRIC.     (King,  1913.)     Purplish  lavender. 
ELFRIDA  ELLICOTT.     (Damerum,    1914.)     Rosy  magenta. 
ELFRIDA  PEARSON.     (Pearson,   1911.)     Blush-pink. 
ELIZABETH.     (Cross,  1913.)     Brick-red  self. 
ELIZABETH  HEMUS.     (Hemus,  1910.)     Blush-pink. 
ELLA  Box.     (Box,  1914.)     White  flaked  lavender. 
ELSIE    EDWARDS.     (Stark,    1914.)     A   cream   ground    Mrs. 

Cuthbertson. 

52 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


ELSIE  HERBERT.    (Breadmore,  1908.)   White,  edged  pale  rose. 

EMILY.     (House,  1912.)     Rosy  mauve. 

EMILY  ECKFORD  SPENCER.     (Burpee,  1910.)     Bluish  purple. 

EMMIE  TATHAM.     (Stark,   1910.)     Rich  rose. 

EMPRESS.     (Deal,  1910.)     Rosy  purple  self. 

EMPRESS  EUGENIE.  (Burpee,  1914.)  Soft  lavender  flake 
on  white.  Awarded  certificate  of  merit,  American  Sweet 
Pea  Society*  191 1. 

EMPIRE  CRIMSON.     (J.  K.  King,  1916.)     A  large  crimson  self. 

EMPIRE  WHITE.     (J.  K.  King,  1916.)     A  fine  white  self. 

ENCHANTRESS.  (Stark,  1906.)  Has  proved  to  be  synony- 
mous with  Countess  Spencer. 

ENID  DAMERUM.     (Lumley,   1912.)     Chocolate  self. 

ERIC  HARVEY.  (Unwin,  1911.)  Similar  to  Martha  Wash- 
ington. 

ERIC  HINTON.  (Hinton  Bros.,  1904.)  Bright  pink,  deeper 
towards  the  edges. 

ERNEST  KING.     (King,  1909.)     Large  orange-pink. 

ESSEX  BEAUTY.     (King,  1910.)     Clear  blue. 

ETHEL  ROOSEVELT.  (Burpee,  1911.)  Light  rose-pink, 
striped  on  primrose  ground. 

ETTA  DYKE.  (Breadmore,  1908.)  Synonymous  with  Bur- 
pee's White  Spencer. 

EVANGELINE.     (Ward,  1910.)     Lavender  self.    . 

EVELYN  HEMUS.  (Hemus,  1908.)  Cream,  with  a  picotee 
edging  of  terra-cotta  pink.  Similar  to  Mrs.  C.  W.  Bread- 
more. 

FAIR  MAID.     (Stark,  1910.)     Flesh  on  cream  ground. 

FAITH.     (Stevenson,  1917.)     Pure  lavender. 

FARNHAM  LAVENDER.     (Bide,  1916.)     Pure  lavender  self. 

FAULKNER'S  PRIMROSE.  (Faulkner,  1912.)  Primrose  self, 
black  seeded. 

FELICE  LYNE.     (Agate,  1913.)     A  lighter  Stirling  Stent. 

FELICITY.     (Bath,  1913.)     Lilac  self. 

FIERY  CROSS.  (Malcolm-Burpee,  1916.)  Scorching  fire-red, 
or  scarlet. 

53 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


FLAMINGO.     (Aldersey,    1910.)     Vermilion    red. 

FLORADALE  FAIRY.  (Burpee,  1915.)  A  new  primrose  self 
of  great  merit. 

FLORA  NORTON  SPENCER.  (Morse,  1909.)  Beautiful  pale 
blue — a  charming  color.  Not  of  largest  size. 

FLORENCE  MORSE  SPENCER.  (Morse,  1908.)  Beautiful 
light  pink,  deepening  towards  the  edges.  Similar  to  Prin- 
cess Victoria  and  Mrs.  Hardcastle  Sykes. 

FLORENCE  NIGHTINGALE.  (Dickson-Burpee,  1911.)  Clear 
lavender  self. 

FLORENCE  SPICER.     (Jarman,  1913.)     Bronzy-purple  self. 

FLORENCE  WRIGHT.     (Stark,  1910.)     Pure  white  self. 

FLORRIE.     (Bolton,    1912.)     Rosy    crimson-lake. 

FLOSSIE  JEFFREY.  (Breadmore,  1910.)  Shrimp-pink  on 
cream  ground. 

FRANCES  DEAL.     (Deal,   1912.)     Rosy  heliotrope. 

FRANK  UNWIN.     (Unwin,  1910.)     Lavender,  suffused  mauve. 

FREDA.     (Breadmore,   1910.)     White  self. 

FRED  FAIRBURN.     (Otter,  1910.)     Pink  self. 

FREDA  UNWIN.     (Unwin,  1911.)     Light  blue. 

FRILLED  BUFF.     (Stark,  1916.)     Cream,  suffused  chamois. 

FRILLED  PINK.  (Dobbie,  1915.)  A  duplex  Countess 
Spencer. 

G.  C.  WAUD.     (Cole,  1910.)     Crimson  self. 

GENERAL  TOWNSEND.     (Hurst,  1917.)     Deep  rosy-mauve. 

GEORGE  BAXTER.     (Bolton,  1909.)     Maroon,  shaded  violet. 

GEORGE  CURZON.  (Aldersey,  1912.)  Dark  blue  flake. 
Similar  to  Loyalty. 

GEORGE  HERBERT.  (Breadmore,  1907.)  Bright  rosy- 
carmine  of  largest  size  and  best  Spencer  form.  Synony- 
mous with  John  Ingman. 

GEORGE  STARK.     (Stark,  1910.)     An  intense  dazzling  scarlet. 

GEORGE  WASHINGTON.  (Henderson,  1910.)  Rose-crimson 
self. 

GERTIE  HART.  (Damerum,  1914.)  Rose-mauve  standard, 
mauve  wings. 

54 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


GERTRUDE.     (Cross,  1913.)     Light  rose-lavender  self.     Sim- 
ilar to  Charm. 

GIANT  CREAM  WAVED.     (Deal,  1910.)     Primrose  self. 
GIPSY   QUEEN.     (Watkins   &   Simpson,    1909.)     Similar   to 

but  not  so  good  as  Ramona  Spencer. 

GLADYS  BURT.     (Unwin,  1910.)     Salmon-pink,  cream  ground. 
GLADYS  COLE.     (Jones  &  Sons,  191 1.)     Lavender  self. 
GLITTERS.     fLumley,   1910.)     Orange-scarlet. 
GLORY  OF  PARIS.     (Clark,  1909.)     Similar  to  Burpee's  King 

Edward  Spencer. 

GLOW.     (Bath,  1915.)     Synonymous  with  Robert  Sydenham. 
GOLDEN  GLORY.     (Stevenson,  1916.)     Soft  golden-orange. 
GORDON  ANKENTELL.     (Breadmore,  1909.)     Flame  colored. 
GORDON    KEEBLE.     (Deal,    1913.)     Soft    mauve   on    white 

ground.     Somewhat  similar  to  Charm. 
GRACE    DARLING.      (King,    1913.)     Cream,    suffused    soft 

orange-pink. 
GRACE    HARVEY.     (Darnerum,    1917.)     Royal   blue   wings; 

purple  standard. 

GRENADIER.     (Clark,   1909.)     Scarlet  self. 
GREY  DELIGHT.     (Box,   1913.)     Pale  blue  self.     Similar  to 

Margaret  Madison. 

GUY  HEMUS.     (Hemus,  1910.)     Light  lavender  self. 
GUY  LANGTON.     (Lumley,   1912.)     Deep  bronze. 
GWENDOLINE.     (House,  1910.)     Blue  self. 
HARRY  BALFOUR.     (Jarman,  1910.)    Orange  self. 
HAWLMARK  GLADYS.     (Dickson,   1914.)     Light  cream-pink. 

Flowers  of  largest  size. 
HELEN   CHETWYND.     (Sydenham,    1914.)     Very   similar  to 

Doris  Usher. 
HELEN    GROSVENOR.     (Aldersey,    1910.)     Similar  to   Helen 

Lewis,  but  richer. 
HELEN  LEWIS.     (Breadmore-Watson,   1906.)     Large,  wavy, 

orange-colored  standard;    wings,   rosy-salmon. 
HELEN  PIERCE  SPENCER.     (Cross,   1913.)     A  waved  Helen 

Pierce. 

55 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


HELEN  WILLIAMS.     (Stark,  1913.)     Cream  with  rose  edge. 
HELIO  PARADISE.     (Hemus,  1910.)     Pale  rosy  heliotrope. 
HENRY  OHN.    (Dobbie,  1916.)   A  cream  ground  Frilled  Pink. 
HERCULES.     (Stark,  1911.)     Large  pink  self. 
HEREWARD.     (Stark,  1911.)     Pale  cerise  self. 
HILARY  CHRISTY.     (Dickson,   1916.)     Orange-scarlet  self. 
HILDA.     (Woodcock,    1911.)     Orange-scarlet,   rose  wings. 
HOBBIE'S  CRIMSON.     (Hobble's,  1916.)     Bright  crimson  self. 
HOLDFAST  BEAUTY.     (Hemus,  1911.)     Similar  to  Constance 

Oliver. 

HOLDFAST  BELLE.    (Hemus,  1908.)    Soft  pink,  tinged  apricot. 
HOLDFAST  PINK.     (Hemus,  1908.)     Buff-pink  self. 
HONOR  BRIGHT.     (Stevenson,   1916.)     Bright  salmon-red. 
HOPE.     (Stevenson,  1917.)     Clear  soft  rose. 
HORACE  SKIPPER.     (Stark,   1908.)     Deep  rosy-pink. 
HYACINTH.     (Gilbert,  1910.)     Magenta  self,  small. 
IAN  HAMILTON.     (Damerum,  1917).     Brilliant  scarlet-cerise. 
ILLUMINATOR.     (Burpee,   1914.)     Cerise-rose  on  salmon. 
IOLANTHE.     (Chapman-Mackereth,    1912.)     White  self. 
IONA.     (Gilbert,    1910.)     Bluish-purple   self. 
INSPECTOR.     (Dobbie,   1913.)     Rich  salmon. 
IRENE  DAMERUM.     (Damerum,   1915.)     Light  violet-mauve 

blush. 
IVORY  KING.     (Bolton,  1916.)     Ivory-cream  slightly  suffused 

pink. 

IRIS.     (Breadmore,   1912.)     Light  salmon  self. 
IRISH   BELLE    OR   DREAM.     (Dickson-Burpee,    1912.)     Rich 

lilac  flushed  pink.     Awarded  certificate  of  merit  by  the 

National  Sweet  Pea  Society,  1911. 
ISABEL.     (Faulkner  and  Aitken,  1912.)     Light  salmon-pink 

self. 

ISOBEL  MALCOLM.     (Malcolm,  1911.)     Primrose  self. 
IVANHOE.     (Dobbie,  1910.)     Lavender  self. 
IVY  HERBERT.     (Breadmore,  1909.)     Rich  plum  self. 
J.-.B.    LOWE.     (Hinton,    1917.)     Orange-crimson   standard; 

wings  white  flushed  pink. 

56 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


JACK   TAR.     (Breadmore,    1911.)     Dark   blue   with   bronze 
standard. 

JACK  UNWIN.     (Unwin,  1909.)     Rose  flake,  white  ground. 

J.  T.  TAYLOR.     (Breadmore,  1909.)     Plum  colored. 

JAMES  Box.     (Box,  1913.)     Bright  salmon  self. 

JARGOON.     (Aldersey,  1910.)     Heliotrope  self.. 

JEAN  IRELAND.     (Dobbie,  1916.)     Rich  cream  ground  edged 
carmine-rose. 

JESSIE    CUTHBERTSON    SPENCER.     (Morse,    1915.)     Cream, 
striped  bright  rose-pink. 

JOHN  INGMAN.     (Sydenham-Cole,  1905.)     Rosy-carmine  with 
darker  shadings,  large  and  of  best  form. 

JOHN  PORTER.    (Dickson,  1917.)  An  improved  Edrom  Beauty. 

JOHN  RIDD.     (Stark,  1912.)     Large  purple  self. 

JOSEPHINE  BARNARD.     (Bath,  1909.)     Rosy-pink;    standard 
lighter  than  wings. 

JOSEPHINE.     (Wright,  1914.)     A  deeper  Helen  Lewis. 

JULIET.     (Deal,  1912.)     Pale  apricot  on  lemon  ground. 

KATHLEEN.     (Deal,  1913.)     Rich  glowing  cerise. 

KATHLEEN    MACGOWAN.     (Breadmore,     1909.)     Sky    blue. 
Similar  to  Flora  Norton  Spencer. 

KING  ALFONSO.     (Breadmore,  1909.)     Crimson,  shaded  ma- 
genta.    Similar  to  King  Edward  Spencer. 
•  KING  ALFRED.     (Breadmore,   1912.)     Bright  orange-pink. 

KING  EDWARD  SPENCER.     (Burpee,  1909.)     Almost  a  crim- 
son scarlet  self.     A  magnificent  flower. 

KING  GEORGE.     (Woodcock,  1910.)     Lilac-rose  self. 

KING  GEORGE.     (Woodcock,   1917.)     Rosy-lavender. 

KING  MANGEL.     (Stark,  1912.)     Maroon  self. 

KING  MAUVE.     (Woodcock,  1914.)     Mauve  self. 

KING  WHITE.     (Malcolm-Burpee-Dickson,  1914.)    A  superb 
white  self. 

KITTY  CLIVE.     (Bolton,  1909.)     Pale  scarlet  salmon. 

KITTY  CRIER.     (Breadmore,  1909.)     Rose  and  pink. 

KOWHAI.       (Trevethick-Mackereth,    1912.)      Ivory    shaded 
apricot. 

57 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


KRALISSA.      (Aldersey,   1913.)     Pink  self.     Similar  to  Her- 
cules. 

LA  BELLE  SAUVAGE.     (Savage,  1913.)     Pale  pink  self. 

LADY   ALTHORP.     (Cole,    1906.)     White,    beautifully   tinted 
buff.     Similar  to  Mrs.  Sankey  Spencer. 

LADY  ARTHUR.     (Aldersey,  1910.)     Deep  cerise  and  salmon- 
pink. 

LADY    EVELYN     EYRE.     (Holmes-Sydenham,     1912.)     Pale 
pink,  flushed  salmon. 

LADY    FARREN.     (Stark,    1909.)     Rose.     Somewhat    similar 
to  Marie  Corelli. 

LADY  FISHER.     (Holmes,  1917.)     Blush-pink,  cream  ground. 

LADY  FLORENCE  WILLOUGHBY.     (Gilbert,  1911.)     Buff-pink 
self. 

LADY  FRENCH.     (Woodcock,  1916.)     Orange-cerise  and  rosy- 
•carmine. 

LADY  KNOX.     (Dobbie,  1912.)     A  large  blush  cream. 

LADY    MILLER.     (Malcolm-Dobbie,     1913.)     Buff,    suffused 
salmon-pink. 

LADY    ROSA.     (Holmes,    1917.)     Rose-pink,    standard    pale 
pink,  cream  ground. 

LADY  SARAH  SPENCER.     (Cole,  1910.)     Pink,  suffused  salmon. 

LADY  URSULA.     (Ward,  1913.)     A  Helen  Pierce  Spencer. 

LANCASHIRE.     (Bolton,  1910.)     Salmon-pink,  creamy  ground. 
Similar  to  Miriam  Beaver. 

LAURA    WYATT.     (Dipnall,     1913.)     Brilliant    orange-pink. 
Similar  to  King  Alfred. 

LAVENDER    G.    HERBERT.     (Breadmore,    1909.)     Lavender 
self. 

LAVENDER  PARADISE.  (Hemus,  1910.)  Lavenderself.  Synony- 
mous with  Florence  Nightingale. 

LAVENDER  QUEEN.     (Faulkner,   1912.)     Soft  lilac. 

LEIGE.     (Hobbie's,  1916.)     White  self. 

LESLIE  IMBER.     (Unwin,  1912.)     Rich  blue  self.     Similar  to 
Flora  Norton  Spencer. 

LIBERTY.     (Lumley,    1910.)     Crimson   self. 

58 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


LILA.     (Dipnall,   1913.)     Cream,  flushed  lilac-mauve. 

LILAC  QUEEN.     (Bath,  1910.)     Clear  lilac  self. 

LILAC  SPENCER.     (Davies,  1911.)     Lilac  self. 

LILAC  SUNBONNET.     (Aldersey,  1910.)     Lilac  and  heliotrope. 

LILIAN.     (Holmes-Sydenham,    1913.)     Soft  salmon-pink. 

LINDA  HEMUS.     (Hemus,  1911.)     Silvery  mid-blue  self. 

LINDFIELD  SURPRISE.  (Box,  1913.)  Lavender  flake  on 
white. 

LIZETTE  LUMLEY.  (Lumley,  1910.)  Rose  stripe  on  cream 
ground. 

LORD  ABERCONWAY.     (Holden,  1914.)     Rich  red  prawn. 

LORD  CHARLES  BERESFORD.  (Alsen,  1910.)  Rosy-mauve 
self. 

LORD  CURZON.     (Breadmore,   1913.)     Rosy  magenta. 

LORD  FISHER.     (Holmes,  1916.)     Rich  red  maroon  self. 

LORD  KITCHENER.  (Damerum,  1916.)  Cerise-orange  scar- 
let. 

LORD  NELSON  SPENCER.  (Holmes-Sydenham,  1913.)  Dark- 
blue  self. 

LORD  NORTHCLIFFE.     (Stark,   1910.)     Cerise  self. 

LORN  A   DOONE.     (Stark,    1908.)     Pale  blush. 

LOUISE  MATILDA.     (Faulkner,  1912.)     Large  white  self. 

LOUVAIN.     (Stark,    1915.)     White,   suffused  salmon-pink. 

LOVELY  SPENCER.  (Morse,  1909.)  Bright  pink  at  base  of 
standard  and  wings,  becoming  almost  blush  white  at  the 
edges. 

LOYALTY.     (Stark,  1912.)     Violet  flake  on  white  ground. 

LUCY  HEMUS.     (Hemus,  1908.)     Light  pink  on  cream. 

LYNETTE.     (Dipnall,  1914.)     A  lighter  Doris  Usher. 

MABEL  BACCUS.     (Uhwin,  1914.)     A  Helen  Pierce  Spencer. 

MADGE  RIDGARD.  (Unwin,  1910.)  White,  flushed  helio- 
trope. 

MAGGIE  STARK.  (Stark,  1909.)  Orange-scarlet.  Similar 
to  Helen  Lewis. 

MAGNIFICENT.  (Stark,  1910.)  Similar  to  Mrs.  W.  J. 
Unwin. 

59 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


MAIDEN.     (Malcolm,  1915.)     A  very  light  pink  self. 
MAJESTIC.     (Miller,   1912.)     Large  cream  self. 
MALCOLM'S  WAVED  CREAM.     (Malcolm-King,  1909.)     Same 

as  Primrose  Spencer. 
MAORI    BELLE.     (Trevethick-Mackereth,    1911.)     Lavender 

self. 

MAORI  CHIEF.    (Trevethick-Mackereth,  1912.)     Maroon  self. 
MARCHIONESS  OF  TWEEDDALE.     (Bolton,  1911.)    Similar  to 

Martha  Washington. 
MARGARET    ATLEE.     (Morse,     1913.)     Apricot    on    cream 

ground. 

MARGARET  FIFE.     (Dobbie,  1916.)     Bright  blue  self. 
MARGARET   MADISON.     (Morse-Burpee,    1912.)     Clear  pale 

blue  self.      Certificate    of    merit,    National    Sweet    Pea 

Society,  1911. 

MARIE.     (Cross,    1913.)     White,  flaked  blue. 
MARIE    CORELLI.     (Burpee-Morse,     1910.)     Brilliant    rose- 
carmine  or  red. 

MARINE.     (Malcolm,  1915.)     A  rich  blue  self. 
MARION.     (Dipnall,    1915.)     Clear   rose-cerise. 
MARION.     (Dobbie,  1911.)     Pale  lilac  rose. 
MARJORIE  DAMERUM.     (Damerum,  1914.)     Light  blue  self. 
MARJORIE  HEMUS.     (Hemus,   1912.)     White,  picoteed  blue. 
MARJORIE  LINZEE.     (Breadmore,  1909.)     Rosy  pink. 
MARJORIE  WILLIS.     (Lumley,  1908.)     A  large,  rose  colored 

Spencer,  resembling  Marie  Corelli. 

MARKS  TEY.     (Dobbie,  1913.)     Violet  with  bronze  wings. 
MARTHA  WASHINGTON.     (Henderson,    1910.)     White  edged 

and  flushed  rose. 

MARVEL.     (Bolton,  1915.)     Cream  ground  rosy-pink. 
MARY  GARDEN.     (Morse-Burpee,  1912.)     Pink  on  cream. 
MARY  VIPAN.     (Eckford,   1910.)     Rose  self. 
MASTERPIECE.     (Dobbie,  1910.)     Lavender  self,  flushed  rose 

on  standard. 
MAUD  GUEST.     (Eckford,    1909.)     Synonymous  with  Lady 

Al  thorp. 

60 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


MAUD   HOLMES.     (Holmes,    1910.)     Crimson   self.     Similar 
to   King  Edward  Spencer. 

MAUVE  PARADISE.     (Hemus,   1910.)     Light  mauve  self. 

MAUVE  QUEEN.     (Dobbie,   1912.)     Bright  mauve. 

MAVIS.     (-King,   1917.)     Standard  shaded  khaki  blush  with 
rose  centre,  white  ground. 

MAY  CAMPBELL.     (Dobbie,   1912.)     Cream,  flaked  carmine. 

MAY  DAY.     (Stark,  1916.)     Deep  sky-blue  self. 

MAY  FARQUHAR.     (Unwin,   1910.)     Deep  blue  self. 

MAY  UNWIN.     (Unwin,   1914.)     Orange-scarlet. 

MELBA.     (Malcolm-Dobbie,  1912.)     Large  pale  salmon. 

MELODY.     (Dickson,  1914.)     A  magnificent  cream-pink. 

MENIE  CHRISTIE.     (Dobbie,  1908.)     Standard  purplish-car- 
mine; wings,  rosy  magenta. 

MERCIA.     (Stark,   1910.)     Pale  salmon  self. 

MILLIE  MASLIN  SPENCER.     (Holmes-Sydenham,  1912.)     Ma- 
genta-crimson self. 

MINNA  BURNABY.     (Stark,   1917.)     Bright  shrimp  suffused 
salmon.     Wings  cream  suffused  pink. 

MINNIE   FURNELL.     (Alsen,    1912.)     Pink  with  cream  eye. 
Similar  to  Mrs.  R.  Hallam. 

MINNIE  ORST.     (Deal,  1912.)     Blue,  veined  white. 

MIRIAM  BEAVER.     (Burpee-Morse;  1910.)    Salmon-pink  suf- 
fused with  buff  or  apricot  on  a  primrose  grouad. 

Miss  A.    BROWN.     (Darlington,    1909.)    Synonymous  with 
Asta  Ohn. 

Miss  BURNIE.     (Dobbie,  1916.)     Standard  blush-pink;  wings, 
white. 

Miss  J.  BROWN.    (Aitkens,  1914.)    Rich  orange,  scarlet  wings. 

Miss    FRILLS.     (Gilbert,    1909.)     Similar   to    Mrs.    Sankey 
Spencer. 

Miss  L.   E.    KING.     (King,    1909.)    White,  flaked  orange- 
pink. 

Miss  L.  HAWKES.     (Agate,  1913.)     Light  pink. 

Miss  M.  A.  LINZEE.     (Breadmore,   1908.)    A  bright  rosy- 
pink  self. 

61 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


MISTRESS  LUMLEY.     (Lumley,   1910.)     Cream  flaked. 

MOLLIE  CLEGG.     (Breadmore,   1910.)     Lavender  self. 

MONEYMAKER.     (Agate-Lumley,  1910.)     White  self. 

MONITOR.     (Bolton,  1910.)     Rose  flake. 

MONTESUMA.     (Bolton,    1915.)    White,   striped  mahogany. 

MORNING  MIST.     (King,   1915.)     Distinct  French-gray  self. 

MOTHER-O'-PEARL.      (Aldersey-Sydenham,      1909.)      Plum- 
bago-blue. 

MOONSTONE.     (Aldersey,  1910.)     Pale  lavender-gray  self. 

MRS.  A.  G.  GENTLE.     (Sydenham,   1916.)     White,  heavily 
edged  bright  rose. 

MRS.  ALEX.  WARE.     (Bolton,   1910.)     Cream,  shaded  apri- 
cot. 

MRS.  ALSEN.     (Alsen,  1910.)     Clear  blue  self. 

MRS.  ANDREW  IRELAND.     (Dobbie,  1909.)     Similar  to  Apple 
Blossom  Spencer,  but  on  a  buff  ground. 

MRS.   A.   MALCOLM.     (Malcolm-Mackereth,    1909.)     Cream 
self. 

MRS.  ARTHUR  STEVENSON.     (Unwin,  1916.)     Lilac-mauve  on 
white. 

MRS.  B.  GILBERT.     (Gilbert,  1914.)     Rose,  veined. 

MRS.  BRYCE.     (Bolton,   1911.)     White,  edged  buff. 

MRS.   C.   P.  TOMLIN.     (Woodcock,    1917.)     Scarlet  with  a 
touch  of  fiery  red. 

MRS.  E.  A.  TANQUERAY.     (Damerum,  1915.)     Deep  cerise- 
scarlet. 

MRS.  E.  C.  McEwEN.     (Damerum,  1916.)     A  large  cream- 
pink. 

MRS.  E.  WRIGHT.     (Bolton,  1916.)     White,  flushed  mauve, 
edged  blue. 

MRS.   FRED.   KELLEY.     (Hobbie's,    1915.)     Similar  to  Mrs. 
Town  send. 

MRS.   CHARLES   FOSTER.     (Baker,    1907.)     A  rosy-lavender 
Spencer. 

MRS.    CHARLES    MANDER.     (Baker,    1907.)     Rich   magenta 
with  rather  darker  wings. 

62 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


MRS.    CUTHBERTSON.     (Dobbie,    1912.)     Pink    with    white 

wings. 
MRS.  C.  W.  BREADMORE.    (Breadmore,  1908.)    Buff  ground 

with  picotee  edge  of  rose. 
MRS.  D.  DENHOLM  FRASER.     (Unwin,  1913.)     Salmon  flaked 

on  white. 

MRS.  E.  COWDY.     (Bolton,  1913.)     Large  maroon  self. 
MRS.    E.    DARLINGTON.     (Darlington*,    1910.)     Rose,   cream 

ground. 

MRS.  DUNCAN.     (Stark,   1910.)     Crimson-scarlet  self. 
MRS.    E.   J.   JOHNSTONE.     (Johnstone,    1910.)     Salmon-buff 

self. 

MRS.  E.  NOAKES.     (Agate-Lumley,  1910.)     Lavender  self. 
MRS.  E.  OTTER.     (Otter,  1910.)     French  gray,  veined. 
MRS.    F.   WELLESLEY.     (Wellesley,    1910.)     Cream,   tinged 

blush. 

MRS.  FRED  AREY.    (Breadmore,  1913.)    Cream,  flushed  pink. 
MRS.  GEORGE  CHARLES.     (Bolton,  1910.)     Dark  blue. 
MRS.     GIBBS     Box.     (Box,     1912.)     Salmon-pink,     cream 

ground.    . 
MRS.    HARDCASTLE   SYKES.     (Bolton,    1906.)     A  pale  pink 

Spencer.    Similar  to  Princess  Victoria  and  Florence  Morse 

Spencer. 

MRS.  HARRIETTS  HEMUS.     (Hemus,  1912.)     Pale  salmon. 
MRS.  H.  CHIVERS.     (Unwin,  1910.)     Cream-pink. 
MRS.  H.  E.  WARD.     (Aitkens,  1914.)     Rich  golden  pink. 
MRS.   H.  G.  TIGWELL.     (Unwin,    1911.)     Similar  to  Ethel 

Roosevelt. 

MRS.  HERBERT  HEMUS.     (Hemus,   1911.)     Magenta. 
MRS.  HESLINGTON.     (Heslingt on- Dobbie,  1912.)     Lavender, 

shaded  mauve. 

MRS.  H.  LEES.     (Agate,  1913.)     Bright  pink. 
MRS.  H.  LOWE.     (Lowe,   1910.)     Salmon-rose. 
MRS.   HOLROYD.     (Breadmore,   1913.)     Bright  maroon  self. 
MRS.  HENRY  BELL.     (Bolton,  1908.)     Rich  apricot  pink  on 

cream  ground.     Similar  to  Mrs.  Routzahn. 
6? 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


MRS.   HUGH   DICKSON.     (Dobbie,    1910.)     A  beautiful  rich 

apricot  on  cream  ground,  shaded  pink. 
MRS.    HUGH    WORMALD.     (Hobbie's,     1915.)     Salmon-rose, 

cream  wings. 

MRS.  H.  J.  DAMERUM.     (Damerum,  1915.)     Deep  cream  self. 
MRS.  J.  BALMER.     (Unwin,  1915.)     Cream,  heavily  suffused 

reddish-pink. 

MRS.  JAMES  C.  HOUSE.     (House,  1912.)     Mauve  with  pur- 
plish wings.     Synonymous  with  Tennant  Spencer. 
MRS.  J.  EMMETT.     (Bolton,  1914.)     Light  apricot -pink 
MRS.  JESSOP.     (Bolton,   1914.)     Glowing  cerise-pink. 
MRS.  JOSEPH  CHAMBERLAIN  SPENCER.    (Bath,  1909.)   White 

striped  with  rose. 

MRS.  KATE  HAMMOND.   (Hobbie's,  1916.)  A  large  satiny-pink. 
MRS.  LANCASTER.     (Bolton,   1910.)     Cream-pink  self. 
MRS.  L.  C.  HOCKEY.     (Jarman,  1913.)     Pale  rosy-rnauve. 
MRS.  McItwRiCK.     (Malcolm-Dobbie,  1914.)     Rosy  mauve 

standard,  mauve  wings. 

MRS.  MILLER.     (Miller,  1910.)     Primrose  self. 
MRS.   R.   HALLAM.     (Unwin,    1911.)     Soft  salmon  pink  on 

cream  ground.     Similar  to  Doris  Usher. 
MRS.  REGINALD  HILL.     (King,  1913.)     A  lilac-lavender  self. 

Very  similar  to  Irish  Belle. 
MRS.  ROUTZAHN.     (Burpee,  1909.)     Buff  or  apricot  ground, 

flushed  and  suffused  with  delicate  pink. 
MRS.  R.  W.  PITT.     (Stark,  1909.)     Rosy  cerise. 
MRS.   SAN  KEY  SPENCER.     (Morse,    1909.)     A  black  seeded 

White  Spencer,  showing  a  tinge  of  buff  in  the  bud  stage. 

Not  of  largest  size. 

MRS.  S.  CHAMPION.     (Bfde,  1910.)     Creamy-pink  self. 
MRS.    TOWNSEND.     (Jarman,    1910.)     White,    flushed    and 

edged  blue. 
MRS.  T.  G.  BAKER.    (Baker,  1909.)    White  edged  and  tinted 

amber  buff.     Similar  to  Lady  Althorp. 
MRS.   W.    HODGES.     (Damerum,    1917.)     White  with   blue 

markings. 

64 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


MRS.  W.  J.  UNWIN.     (Unwin,  1910.)     Orange  flake  on  white 

ground. 

MRS.'  WALTER  CARTER.     (Bunting,  1909.)     A  lavender  col- 
ored Spencer. 
MRS.  WM.    KING.     (King,    1908.)     Synonymous  with  John 

Ingman. 
MRS.  W.  S.  BIRCH.     (Jones,  1911.)     Mauve-pink  on  cream 

ground. 
MRS.  WALTER  WRIGHT  SPENCER.    (Routzahn,  1910.)   Mauve 

self. 
MRS.  T.  W.  WARREN.     (Holmes-Sydenham,   1912.)     Bright 

blue,  veined  on  white. 

MRS.  WILCOX.     (Gilbert,  1909.)     Similar  to  America  Spencer. 
MULBERRY.     (Aldersey,    1912.)     Mulberry-red    self. 
MURIEL  QUICK.     (Unwin,  1913.)     Blue  veined  on  white. 
MYSTERY.     (Aldersey,  1912.)     Pale  pink,  flushed  salmon. 
NANCY.     (Bolton,    1910.)     Shrimp-pink   self. 
NANCY  PERKINS.     (Perkins-Unwin,  1910.)     A  Spencer  Henry 

Eckford. 

NAVY  BLUE  SPENCER.     (Breadmore,   1909.)     Blue. 
NELL  G WYNNE.     (Stark,  1908.)     Deep  cream,  suffused  with 

salmon.     Similar  to  Constance  Oliver. 
NETTIE  JENKINS.     (Unwin,   1911.)     Light  lavender  self. 
NORA  BELSHAM.     (Bide,    1914.)     Pinkish-lilac. 
NEW  MARQUIS.     (Dobbie,  1914!)     Rich  mauve. 
NORA  HERRON.     (Wright,   1914.)     Deep  salmon  self. 
NORMA.     (Clark,  1909.)     Blush,  suffused  pale  salmon;   pink 

at  edges  of  petals. 

NORMAN  HARVEY.     (Damerum,  1914.)     White,  flushed  rose. 
NORVIC.     (Holmes,   1915.)     Large  pure  white  self. 
NUBIAN.     (House,  1910.)     Chocolate  self. 
OLIVE  BOLTON.     (Bolton,  1907.)     Deep  rosy  pink. 
OLIVE  BRIGHT.     (Dickson,   1913.)     Rich  rose. 
OLD    ROSE.     (Malcolm- Dobbie,    1916.)     Distinct    old    rose 

shade. 
OLIVE  RUFFELL.     (Stark,  1908.)     Bright  rosy  salmon. 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


OPAL.     (Aldersey,    1910.)     Pale   lavender-blue. 

ORANGE  KING.     (Bide,  1911.)     Salmony  orange. 

ORANGE     PERFECTION.     (Box,     1912.)     Orange    with    rose 

wings. 

ORANGE  SEEDLING.     (Hemus,  1911.)     Orange  self. 
ORCHID.     (Malcolm- Burpee,   1913.)     Lovely  shade  of  helio. 
ORION.     (Holmes-Sydenham,  1912.)     Deep  reddish-crimson. 
OTHELLO  SPENCER.     (Burpee-Morse,    1909.)     A   rich,   deep 

maroon  of  largest  size. 
OVERCOMER.     (Alsen,  1910.)     Pink  self. 
PARADISE.     (Sydenham,  1907.)     Same  as  Countess  Spencer. 
PARADISE    CARMINE.     (Hemus,     1907.)     Synonymous    with 

John  Ingman. 
PARADISE  IVORY.     (Hemus,  1907.)     Synonymous  with  Queen 

Victoria  Spencer. 

PARADISE  ORANGE.     (Hemus,    1911.)     Salmon-orange  self. 
PARADISE  RED  FLAKE.     (Hemus,  1908.)     A  waved  America, 

red  flaked  on  white  ground. 

PATHFINDER.     (Stark,  1915.)     Similar  to  King  Alfred. 
PEACE.     (Stevenson,    1916.)     Soft  pink  self. 
PEARL.     (Aldersey,   1910.)     Pure  white. 
PEARL-GRAY  SPENCER.     (Morse-Burpee,   1912.)     Dove-gray 

suffused  light  rose. 

PEDESTAL.     (Bolton,  1913.)     Rich  cream,  flaked  dark  rose. 
PEGGY.     (Lumley,  1912.)     Blush. 
PEGGY     MACKERETH.       (Holmes,      1915.)       Rose-lavender, 

flushed  magenta. 

PETER  BLAIR.  (Bolton,  1914.)  Cream,  striped  rose. 
PETUNIA  SPENCER.  (Stark,  1915.)  Light  cerise  self. 
PHANTOM  BLUE.  (Malcolm-Burpee,  1916.)  Art  shades  of 

blue  and  lavender. 

PHYLLIS  BIDE.     (Bide,  1915.)     Similar  to  Robert  Sydenham. 
PHYLLIS.     (Unwin,    1914.)     Mrs.    W.    J.    Unwin    margined 

white. 
PICOTEE.     (Wat kins  and  Simpson,  1910.)     Same  as  Dainty 

Spencer. 

66 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


PLASH ET  BEAUTY.  (Savage,  1910.)  Pinkish  mauve,  lav- 
ender wings. 

PREMIER.     (Stark,  1910.)     Crimson-scarlet  self. 

PRESIDENT.     (House,    1909.)     Similar  to   Senator   Spencer. 

PRIDE  OF  COOMBE.     (House,  1910.)     White,  flaked  rose. 

PRIMROSE  BEAUTY.     (Stark,  1912.)     Primrose  self. 

PRIMROSE   KING.     (Jarman,   1910.)     Primrose  self. 

PRIMROSE  SPENCER.  (Burpee,  1908.)  Deep  primrose  or 
creamy  yellow,  of  largest  size.  Clara  Curtis,  Althorp 
Cream,  Malcolm's  Cream,  and  Primrose  Paradise  are  all 
synonymous. 

PRIMROSE  WAVED.  (Eckford,  1908.)  Same  as  Primrose 
Spencer. 

PRINCE  GEORGE.  (Bolton,  1912.)  Lilac-rose,  reddish-violet 
wings. 

PRINCE  OF  ASTURIAS.  (Breadmore,  1908.)  Standards  deep 
chocolate;  wings  deep  purple.  Similar  to  Othello  Spencer. 

PRINCESS  ALICE.  (Bath,  1909.)  Same  shade  as  the  grandiflora 
Emily  Eckford. 

PRINCESS  HENRY  OF  BATTENBERG.  (Miller,  1917.)  Rosy- 
lavender  self. 

PRINCESS  JULIANA.     (Breadmore,   1910.)     Primrose  self. 

PRINCESS  KATHERINE.     (Bath,   1909.)     Pale  blush  pink. 

PRINCESS  MARY.  (Holmes-Sydenham,  1913.)  Bright  silky 
blue.  In  way  of  Flora  Norton  Spencer. 

PRINCESS  VICTORIA.  (Dobbie,  1908.)  A  light  pink  Spencer 
of  largest  size,  similar  to  Florence  Morse  Spencer. 

PROGRESS.     (King,  1916.)     Rich  pink  self. 

PURITY.     (Bolton,  1908.)     Synonymous  with  White  Spencer. 

PURPLE  PRINCE.  (Dickson-Burpee,  1911.)  Standard  pur- 
plish-maroon, wings  rosy-purple. 

QUAKER  MAID.  (Malcolm-Dobbie,  1914.)  Dove-gray,  wings 
lavender. 

QUEEN  EIRA.   (Jenkins-Parsons,  1912.)  White.   Black  seeded. 

QUEEN  MARY.     (King,  1910.)     Pink  on  cream  ground. 

QUEEN  MOTHER.     (Breadmore,  1913.)     Deep  lilac  self. 

67 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


QUEEN    OF    NORWAY.     (Bolton,    1910.)     Heliotrope-mauve 

self. 
QUEEN  VICTORIA  SPENCER.    (Burpee,  1909.)    A  black  seeded 

Primrose  Spencer,  flushed  rose  in  the  bud  stage. 
QUEENIE.     (Deal,   1909.)     Ivory,  tinted  blush. 
RADIANCE.     (Dickson,  1914.)     Orange,  scarlet  wings.     Very 

similar  to  Thomas  Stevenson. 
RADIANT.     (Ward,    1913.)     Rich  rosy-pink. 
RAINBOW   SPENCER.     (Morse-Burpee,    1912.)     Ivory  white, 

flaked  rose. 
RAMONA    SPENCER.     (Morse,     1909.)     White,    flaked    light 

pink  or  blush. 

RATA.     (Trevethick-Mackereth,   1912.)     Deep  crimson  self. 
RED  ADMIRAL.     (Aldersey,   1913.)     Crimson  self. 
RED  CHIEF.     (Bolton,  1910.)     Red  maroon. 
RED  CROSS.     (Stevenson,  1916.)     Rich  velvety-crimson  self. 
RED  ISOBEL.     (Malcolm,  1917.)    A  fine  red. 
RED  STAR.     (Malcolm-Dobbie,  1912.)     Crimson-scarlet  self. 
RENA  OLIVER.     (Lumley,  1910.)     Light  pink  self. 
RHEIMS.     (Hobbie's,    1916.)     Orange-scarlet  self. 
R.  F.  FELTON.     (Bolton,  1912.)     Lavender  self. 
ROBERT  SYDENHAM.     (Holmes,  1915.)     Rich  orange-salmon 

self. 
ROMANI      RAUNI.      (Sydenham-Aldersey,      1909.)     A    buff 

ground  Countess  Spencer. 

ROSABELLE.     (Malcolm,   1912.)     Distinct  shade  of  rose. 
ROSABELLE  HOARE.     (Unwin,   1909.)     Rose  flake  on  white 

ground. 

ROSALIND.     (Clark,  1909.)     A  deep  rose-colored  Spencer. 
ROSE  DIAMOND.     (Aldersey,  1913.)     Very  similar  to  Decora- 
tor. 
ROSEMARY.     (Aldersey  and  Marsden  Jones,  1913.)     Similar 

to  Rosabelle. 
ROSIE    ADAMS.     (Stevenson-Wright,    1908.)     Rosy    mauve. 

Similar  to  Captivation  Spencer. 
ROSIE  GILBERT.     (Gilbert,  1908.)     A  crimson  self. 

68 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


ROSIE  SYDENHAM.  (Sydenham,  1906.)  Synonymous  with 
John  Ingman. 

ROSINA.     (Bolton,    1915.)     Rosy-heliotrope,   cream   ground. 

ROSY  RAPTURE.  (Stevenson,  1916.)  White,  margined  rosy- 
pink. 

ROTOITI.  (Trevethick-Mackereth,  1912.)  Cream,  flushed 
pink. 

ROYAL  PURPLE.     (R.  Wright,  1913.)     Rich  purple. 

ROYAL  RED.     (  Aldersey,  1913.)     Dark  crimson  self. 

ROYAL  SCARLET.     (Aldersey,   1910.)     Scarlet  self. 

ROWENA.  (King,  1916.)  A  cream  ground  Mrs.  Cuthbert- 
son. 

RUBY.     (Aldersey,  1910.)     Orange-scarlet,  wings  reddish  rose. 

RUBY.     (Bolton,   1910.)     Reddish  magenta. 

RUBY  PALMER.     (Dobbie,   1914.)     Bright  ruby-red. 

RUTH  BIDE.     (Bide,   1916.)     Rich  rosy-cerise. 

RUTH  EARL.     (Lumley,  1911.)     Chocolate-colored  self. 

SALMON  QUEEN.    (Bolton,  1915.)   Soft  salmon-pink  and  rose. 

SCARLET  EMPEROR.  (Holmes-Sydenham,  1912.)  Bright  scar- 
let self. 

SCARLET  EMPRESS.    (Holmes-Sydenham,  1912.)    Scarlet  self. 

SCARLET  MONARCH.     (Deal,  1910.)     Crimson-scarlet  self. 

SCOTCH  PEARL.    (Aldersey,  1910.)   Lavender,  flushed  pink. 

SEAFOAM.     (Cole,  1910.)     White  self. 

SEAMEW.  (Cautley,  1912.)  Pale  blue.  Similar  to  Margaret 
Madison. 

SEASHELL.    (Aldersey,  1910.)    Light  lilac-rose,  cream  ground. 

SENATOR  SPENCER.  (Burpee-Morse,  1910.)  Deep  claret  or 
wine-color  stripes  and  flakes  on  a  light  heliotrope  ground. 

SHAWONDASEE.  (Hemus,  1910.)  Similar  to  Flora  Norton 
Spencer. 

SILAS  COLE.     (Cole,  1909.)     Dark  maroon. 

SILVER  DAWN.  (Cross,  1913.)  Buff,  marbled  lavender- 
blue.  Similar  to  Helen  Pierce  Spencer. 

SILVER  WINGS.  (Stark,  1908.)  Similar  but  not  so  good  as 
Ramona  Spencer. 

69 


SWEET    PEAS    UP    TO    DATE 


SINCERITY.     (Deal,  1914.)     Rich  deep  cerise. 
SKYLINE.     (Dickson,   1914.)     Clear  soft  blue. 
SNOWFLAKE.     (Breadmore,  1910.)     White  self. 
SOUTHCOTE  BLUE.     (Sutton,  1913.)     Pale  blue  self. 
STANLEY  CRISP.     (Dipnall,    1915.)     White  self. 
STEETON,     (Bolton,  1914.)     Terra-cotta  pink. 
STEVENSON'S  WHITE.     (Stevenson,   1913.)     White  self. 
STIRLING  STENT.     (Agate,  1911.)     Bright  salmon-orange. 
SUFFRAGETTE.     (House,    1910.)     Lavender   flake   on    white 

ground. 

SULTAN.     (Hobbies,    1914.)     Deep  maroon. 
SUNPROOF    CRIMSON.     (Sydenham-Holmes,    1910.)     Similar 

to  King  Edward  Spencer. 
SUNPROOF     KING    ALFONSO.     (Breadmore,     1910.)     Similar 

to  King  Edward  Spencer. 
SUNRISE.     (Gilbert,  1909.)     An  orange  self,  but  not  so  good 

as  Helen  Lewis. 

SURPRISE.     (Bolton,  1917.)     Rich  pink,  or  shrimp-pink. 
SUTTON'S   QUEEN.     (Sutton-Rothera,    1908.)     Buff  ground, 

flushed  and  edged  pink. 

SUTTON'S  SUNPROOF  CRIMSON.  (Sutton,  1913.)  Crimson  selj". 
SYEIRA  LEE.  (Sydenham-Aldersey,  1909.)  A  rich  salmon 

pink  on  a  buff  ground. 
TARBOOSH.     (Aldersey,   1910.)     Red  self. 
TARBRUSH.     (Aldersey,  1910.)     Dark  claret. 
TEA  ROSE.     (Dobbie,  1917.)     Salmon-rose. 
TENNANT    SPENCER.     (Morse,    1909.)     Purplish    mauve    of 

largest  size  and  best  Spencer  form. 

THE  ABBOTT.  (Stark,  1913.)  French  gray,  flaked  chocolate. 
THE  HON.  DELIA  SPENCER.  (Cole,  1910.)  Light  magenta. 
THE  KING.  (Dobbie,  1909.)  Similar  to  Burpee's  King 

Edward  Spencer. 

THE  LADY  EVELINE.     (Malcolm,  1916.)     Rich  rosy-mauve. 
THE  MARQUIS.     (Dobbie,   1908.)     Rosy  heliotrope. 
THE  PRESIDENT.     (Dickson-Burpee,  1916.)     Dazzling  orange 

scarlet  self. 

70 


SPENCER       VARIETIES 


THE  SQUIRE.     (Faulkner,    1912.)     Crimson-scarlet  self. 

THE  SULTAN.     (Bide,  1910.)     Maroon  self. 

THOMAS    STEVENSON.       (Holmes-Sydenham,    1911.)       Rich 

orange-scarlet. 

THORA.     (Stark,  1910.)     Pale  pink  with  darker  edges. 
TOM  BOLTON.     (Bolton,  1910.)     Dark  maroon  self. 
TOPAZ.     (Aldersey,   1910.)     Ivory  self. 
TORTOISESHELL.     (Aldersey,   1913.)     Shrimp-pink. 
TRIUMPH  SPENCER.     (Bolton,   1909.)     Salmon-pink  bi-color. 
TRUE  BLUE.     (Aldersey,   1912.)     Indigo-blue  self. 
UNWIN'S  CREAM.     (Unwin,  1917.)     Deep  primrose. 
UNWIN'S  LAVENDER.     (Unwin,  1917.)     Soft  lavender. 
VEILED  BRIDE.     (Morse,   1914.)     White,  marbled  pink. 
VERA  JEFFERY.     (Breadmore,  1908.)     A  pale  pink. 
VERA  LEES.     (Lees,   1913.)     Buff,  suffused  salmon-pink. 
VERDUN.     (Bolton,     1917.)     Standard     rich     rose-crimson; 

wings  deep  rose. 
VERMILION     BRILLIANT.     (Dickson-Burpee,     1912.)     Bright 

scarlet  self. 

VERONIQUE.     (Lumley,    1911.)     Bluish-purple,    veined. 
VESUVIUS.     (King,   1915.)     Similar  to  Scarlet  Emperor, 
VICTORY.     (Stevenson,    1916.)     Rich  salmon-red, 
VICTORY.     (Bolton,     1917.)     Standard     heliotrope;     wings 

lavender. 

VICTOR  UNWIN.     (Unwin,    1913.)     Chocolate  self. 
VIOLA  RATCLIFFE.     (Breadmore,  1910.)     Rosy-lavender  self. 
VIOLET  CRABB.     (Bide,    1911.)     Reddish  lavender. 
WALTER  P.  WRIGHT.     (Unwin,   1912.)     Light  lavender. 
WARRIOR.     (Malcolm,   1915.)     Rich  red;    wings  rosy-pink. 
WARRIOR.     (Stevenson,    1916.)     Deep  salmon-red  self. 
WATERWITCH.     (Bunting,     1911.)     Cream    ground,    picotee 

edge. 

WAVED  CREAM.     (Malcolm-Mackereth,   1909.)     Cream  self. 
WAVERLEY    SPENCER.     (Morse,     1909.)     Purplish    maroon, 

wings  rosy-purple. 
WEDGWOOD.     (Dickson-Burpee,    1914.)     Light-blue  self. 


SWEET    PEAS   UP  TO   DATE 


WEDDING  BELLS.     (J.  K.  King,  1916.)     Pale  rosy-lilac  self. 
WENVOE  CASTLE.     (Gerhold,  1910.)     Rosy  mauve. 
WHITE  PERFECTION.     (Damerum,  1916.)     Large  white  self. 
WHITE  QUEEN.     (Stark,  1912.)     Large  white  self. 
WHITE  SPENCER.     (Burpee,   1908.)     Pure  white,  of  largest 

size.     It  is  identical  with  Etta  Dyke. 

WHITE  WAVED.     (Eckford,  1908.)     Similar  to  White  Spencer. 
WINIFRED  DEAL.     (Deal,  1910.)     Similar  to  Dainty  Spencer. 
WINIFRED  SAVAGE.     (Savage,  1910.)     Purplish  heliotrope. 
WINIFRED  UNWIN.     (Unwin,  1912.)     Pale  lavender  self. 
WINNIE  JONES.     (Stark,  1909.)     Cream  flaked  rose. 
WINSOME.     (Deal,  1910.)     Pink,  suffused  heliotrope. 
W.    R.    BEAVER.     (Bolton,    1910.)     Claret    stripe   on   gray 

ground.     Similar  to  Senator  Spencer. 
W.    T.    HUTCHINS.     (Burpee-Morse,    1910.)     Light    apricot 

or  buff  overlaid  with  a  beautiful  blush  pink. 
YANKEE.     (House,  1909.)     An  America  Spencer. 
ZARA.     (Hemus,  1908.)     Salmon-pink. 
ZARINA    SPENCER.     (Holmes-Sydenham,    1913.)     A    waved 

Zarina. 

ZEBRA.     (Hemus,  1910.)     Rosy  mauve  flake,  white  ground. 
ZEPHYR.     (J-Iemus,   1908.)     A  silvery  blue  self.     Similar  to 

Flora  Norton  Spencer. 
ZILLAH  SMITH.     (Unwin,  1914.)     Cream,  margined  rose. 


"UNWIN"  VARIETIES 


UNWIN  TYPE  OF  SWEET  PEAS 
These  resemble  the  Spencer  type,  having  the  same 
wavy  form,  but  are  not  so  large,  the  original  variety 
being  Gladys  Unwin.  The  vines  are  thrifty  and  pro- 
duce abundantly  the  handsome  waved  flowers  which 
make  most  .attractive  bouquets.  Nora  Unwin  is 
especially  fine  in  form,  and  Frank  Dolby  is  to  be  classed 
among  the  best  lavender  or  light  blues. 

A.  J.  COOK.     (Unwin,  1907.)     Violet  mauve  self.     Variable. 

ANGLIAN  BLUE.     (King,  1909.)    A  waved  Flora  Norton. 

BLUSH  QUEEN.     (Dobbie,   1907.)     Pale  blush. 

CHRISSIE  UNWIN.     (Unwin,   1908.)     Rosy-red  self. 

E.  J.  CASTLE.     (Unwin,   1907.)     Light  rosy  carmine,  with 

light  salmon  shading. 

FRANK  DOLBY.     (Unwin,  1907.)     Lavender  blue. 
GLADYS    UNWIN.     (Unwin,    1905.)     Pale   pink,    beautifully 

waved. 

JACK  UNWIN.     (Unwin,  1909.)     Rose  flake  on  white  ground. 
Miss  E.  F.  DRAYSON.     (Unwin,  1908.)     Crimson-scarlet  self. 
Miss  FRILLS.     (Gilbert,  1909.)     White  shaded  blush. 
MRS.     ALFRED   WATKINS.     (Unwin,    1907.)     Pink   shading 

to  blush. 
NORA    UNWIN.     (Unwin,    1907.)     Pure    white,    beautifully 

waved. 

PHOENIX.     (King,  1909.)     White,  flushed  and  shaded  lilac. 
PHYLLIS  UNWIN.     (Unwin,  1906.)     Rosy  carmine  self. 
PINK  PEARL.     (Unwin,  1907.)     Rich  pink  self. 


73 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


LIST  OF  GRANDIFLORA  SWEET  PEAS 
Since  the  introduction  of  the  Spencer  type  very  little 
has  been  done  to  improve  the  grandifloras,  hybridizers 
devoting  their  energies  to  the  further  development  of 
the  Spencers,  but  although  the  latter  is  now  the  most 
popular,  there  is  still  a  good  demand  for  the  older  type. 

Abbreviations:  H.,  Hooded  Standard;  S.  H.,  Slightly  Hooded 
Standard;  E.,  Erect  Standard. 

An  asterisk  (*)  denotes  that  the  variety  is  nearly  extinct. 

Two  asterisks  (**)  mean  that  the  variety  is  little  known,  but  listed 
in  a  few  catalogs. 

ACME.**      (H. 


J.     Jones,     1908.) 


ECKFORD'S    "BLANCHE     BURPEE." 

A  typical  bloom  of  the  erect  or  expanded 

type. 

ALBATROSS.**     (Dobbie,  1907.) 
variety.     S.  H. 

74 


Blush    white.     S.     H. 

ADMIRATION.  (Bur- 
pee, 1900.)  Beau- 
tiful pink  laven- 
der. H. 

ADONIS.*  (Carter, 
1884.)  Standard 
carmine  pink  with 
rosy  wings.  E. 

ADMIRAL  TOGO.** 
(Breadmore,  1906.) 
Extremely  dark 
violet  maroon.  H. 

AGNES  ECKFORD. 
(Eckford,  1907.) 
A  soft  blush  pink, 
self  color.  H. 

AGNES  JOHNSTON. 
(Eckford,  1903.) 
Standards  are  rose 
pink,  shaded  cream ; 
pinkish  buff  wings. 
E. 
A  pure  white  black-seeded 


GRANDIFLORA    SWEET    PEAS 


ALBA  MAGNIFICA.*     (Henderson,  1890.)     A  pure  white  self. 
E. 

ALBION.**     (Stark,  1906.)     Ivory  white. 

ALICE    ECKFORD.*     (Eckford,    1896.)     Creamy  white,   with 
tinge  of  purplish  violet.  E. 

AMERICA.     (Vaughan,  1896  )     White  striped  red.     E. 

AMERICAN  BELLE.*     (Burpee,  1894.)     Standard  bright  rose; 
wings  white  with  carmine  spots.     Now  discarded.     E. 

AMERICAN   QUEEN.*     (Burpee,    1902.)     Standard   clear  sal- 
mon red;  wings  bright  deep  rose.     E. 

ANNIE  B.  GILROY.**     (Eckford,  1909.)     Deep  cerise. 

ANNIE  STARK.**     (Stark,    1906.)     White,  delicately  flushed 
with  pale  pink. 

APPLE  BLOSSOM.     (Eckford,  1887.)     Shaded  and  edged  soft 
rose  on  white.    H. 

AURORA.     (Burpee,    1897.)     White  ground,   striped  orange 
salmon.     S.  H. 

AUTOCRAT.**     Better  known  under  the  name  of  Indigo  King. 

AZURE  FAIRY.     (Bath,  1910.)     French  gray,  watered  blue. 

BADEN  POWELL.**     (Jones  &  Son,  1901.)     Similar  to  Cap- 
tain of  the  Blues.     S.  H. 

BAKER'S  SCARLET.**     (Baker,  1909.)     Scarlet  self.     E. 

BEACON.     (Bolton,    1906.)     Standard    cerise    with    creamy 
wings.      E. 

BLACK.*     (Noble,     Cooper    &     Bolton,     1880.)     Generally 
known  as  Invincible  Black.     E. 

BLACKBIRD.**     (Bolton-Sharpe,     1908.)     Blackish    maroon. 
Synonymous  with  Midnight.     S.  H. 

BLACK    KNIGHT.     (Eckford,    1898.)     Standard   dark  claret, 
wings  brownish  purple.     E. 

BLACK  MICHAEL.     (Eckford,  1905.)     Bright  shining  reddish 
maroon.     E. 

BLANCHE  BURPEE.     (Eckford,  1895.)     Snowy  white.     E. 

BLANCHE    FERRY.     (Ferry,    1889.)     Standard    bright    rose- 
pink;  wings  creamy  white.     E.  * 

BLUE  BELLE.     (Bide,  1909.)     Bright  blue. 

75 


SWEET   PEAS   UP  TO   DATE 


BLUE  EDGED.*     (Trevor  Clarke-Carter,   1883.)     White  and 

pink  edged  with  blue.     E. 

BLUE  HYBRID.*     Probably  identical  with  Blue  Edged.     E. 
BLUSHING  BEAUTY.*     (Eckford,  1893.)     S°ft  rose-pink.     H. 
BOLTON'S  PINK.     (Bolton,  1905.)     Rich  orange-pink.     E. 
BOREATTON.*     (Eckford,  1887.)     Dark  maroon  self.     E. 
BOUQUET.     (Deal,  1912.)     A  pink  Helen  Pierce. 
BRIDE  OF  NIAGARA.*     (Vick,    1895.)     Bright  carmine  rose 

standard;  wings  white,  tinged  pink;  double  flowers.     E. 
BRIDESMAID.     (Vaughan,    1904.)     Carmine  shading  to  rose 

and  pink;  wings  of  a  lighter  shade.     E. 
BRILLIANT.*     (Burpee,  1897.)     Crimson  scarlet.     S.  H. 
BRILLIANT  BLUE.     (Burpee,    1907.)     The  standard  is  very 

large,  slightly  hooded,  of  the  richest  dark  navy  blue;   the 

shaded  purple  wings  are  deep  Oxford  blue.     E. 
BRITANNIA.**     (Dobbie,  1904.)     White,  flaked  crimson.     S. 

H. 

BRONZE  KING.*     (Haage  &  Schmidt,  1894.)     Coppery  stand- 
ard, ivory  white  wings.     E. 
BRONZE    PRINCE.*     (Eckford-Bull,     1885.)     Standard    rose 

flushed  bronze  scarlet  with  pale  blush  wings.     E. 
BUTTERFLY.*     (Sutton,    1878.)     White,   edged   and   shaded 

with  blue.     H. 
CALIFORNIA.*     (Lynch,  1897.)     Very  pale  pink,  self  colored. 

H. 

CALYPSO.*     (Eckford,  1900.)  .   Magenta,  and  veined  mauve. 
!    E. 
CAPRICE.**     (Johnson,     1906.)     White,    delicately    shaded 

pale  pink.     S.  H. 
CAPTAIN   CLARKE.*     (Clarke-Sharpe,    date   of  introduction 

unknown.)     White,   flushed  and  penciled  with  carmine; 

wings  blue  edged.     E. 
CAPTAIN  OF  THE  BLUES.     (Eckford,  1890.)     Standard  bright 

purple  blue;  wings  paler  blue.     E. 
CAPTIVATION.     (Eckford,  1897.)    Of  a  deep  magenta  shade. 

S.  H. 

76 


GRANDIFLORA    SWEET   PEAS 


CARDINAL.*     (Eckford,  1885.)     Scarlet  crimson.     E. 

CARMEN  SYLVA.*  (Laxton,  1892.)  Claret  shading  to  white; 
wings  light  lilac.  E. 

CARMINE  ROSE.**  (Muskett.)  Date  of  introduction  not 
known.  Better  known  as  Princess  Beatrice.  Color,  light 
pink.  E. 

CELESTIAL.*  (Lorenz,  1896.)  Standard  light  mauve;  wings 
lavender.  -H. 

CHANCELLOR.*  (Eckford,  1898.)  Standard  bright  orange; 
wings  bright  orange  pink.  H. 

COCCINEA.  (Eckford,  1901.)  Self  colored,  bright  rich  cherry. 
E. 

COLONIST.*  (Eckford,  1898.)  Soft  lilac,  overlaid  bright 
rose.  S.  H. 

COLUMBIA.*  (Burpee,  1897.)  White  ground,  suffused  pur- 
ple and  penciled  pink.  E. 

COQUETTE.  (Eckford,  1896.)  Deep  primrose,  shaded  with 
lavender.  S.  H. 

CORAL  GEM.**     (Vaughan,  1907.)     Light  coral  self.     H. 

CORONATION.**  (Introducer  and  year  of  introduction  un- 
known.) Blush  with  pink  at  the  back  of  the  standard. 

CORONET.*  (Walker-Hutchins,  1898.)  White  striped  with 
orange  pink.  E. 

COUNTESS  CADOGAN.  (Eckford,  1899.)  Bluish  purple  stand- 
ard and  clear  blue  wings.  E. 

COUNTESS  OF  ABERDEEN.*  (Eckford,  1896.)  Self  colored 
soft  pink.  H. 

COUNTESS  OF  LATHOM.  (Eckford,  1900.)  A  soft  cream  tint, 
heavily  shaded  with  flesh  pink  in  the  center  of  the  standard. 
H. 

COUNTESS  OF  Powis.*  (Eckford,  1897.)  Glowing  orange, 
suffused  with  purple.  E. 

COUNTESS  OF  RADNOR.  (Eckford,  1891.)  Light  lavender 
with  faint  purplish  tinge.  H. 

COUNTESS  OF  SHREWSBURY.*  (Eckford,  1896.)  Rose  stand- 
ard with  white  wings.  E. 

77 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


CREAM  OF  BROCKHAMPTON.**  (Foster,  year  of  introduction 
unknown.)  A  clear  cream  self. 

CREOLE.*  (Burpee,  1896.)  The  standard  is  a  light-pinkish 
lavender  with  wings  of  pure  lavender.  E. 

CROWN  JEWEL.  (Eckford,  1896.)  Primrose  ground,  veined 
with  violet.  H. 

CROWN  PRINCESS  OF  PRUSSIA.*  (Haage  &  Schmidt,  1869.) 
Deep  pink  shading  to  very  light  pink.  For  some  time  this 
was  a  popular  variety  with  florists.  E. 

CYRIL  BREADMORE.**  (Breadmore,  1906.)  Rosy  carmine. 
S,  H. 

DAINTY.  (Burpee,  1903.)  The  flowers  on  first  opening 
appear  to  be  white,  but  quickly  change  to  white  with  pink 
edge,  making  a  most  charming  contrast;  there  is  more  pink 
on  the  edges  of  the  standard  than  on  the  edges  of  the  wings. 
S.  H. 

DAVID  R.  WILLIAMSON.  (Eckford,  1905.)  The  large  stand- 
ard is  of  a  rich  indigo  blue,  while  the  wings  are  slightly 
lighter  in  shade.  S.  H. 

DAWN.**  (Stark.)  Standard  light  crimson  magenta; 
wings  white  shaded  crimson.  S.  H. 

DAYBREAK.*  (Burpee,  1896.)  White  marbled  rose  and  crim- 
son. E. 

DELICATA.*     (Stark,  1906.)     White  tinted  with  pink.     S.  H. 

DELIGHT.*  (Eckford,  1889.)  White  crested  with  crimson. 
This  variety  never  became  popular.  E. 

DEVONSHIRE  CREAM.**  (Bathurst-Mackereth,  1908.)  Cream 
self.  E. 

DOLLY  VARDEN.*  (Burpee,  1898.)  Standard  bright  pur- 
ple-magenta shading  lighter,  almost  white  on  the  sides  and 
penciled  with  heavy  maroon  at  the  base.  H. 

DOMINO.**  (Henderson,  1905.)  Known  by  its  more  popu- 
lar name,  "Speckled  Beauty," — which  is  described  as  hav- 
ing primrose  ground  marbled  with  crimson. 

DORA  BREADMORE.**  (Breadmore,  1906.)  A  primrose  self, 
shaded  buff.  S.  H. 

78 


GRANDIFLORA    VARIETIES 


DOROTHY   ECKFORD.     (Eckford,  1903.)     Large,  pure  white 

flower.     S.  H. 

DOROTHY  TENNANT.     (Eckford,  1892.)     Rosy  mauve.     H. 
DOROTHY  VICK.**     (Vick,    1897.)     Standard  scarlet,  wings 

crimson,  produces  double  flowers.     E. 
DOUGLAS     BREADMORE.**     (Breadmore,     1906.)     A    bright 

purple  flake.     S.  H.    - 

DUCHESS  OF  EDINBURGH.*     (Eckford,  1887.)     Crimson.     E. 
DUCHESS "OF 

SUTHERLAND.* 

(Eckford,  1898.) 

Pearly       white, 

suffused       light 

pink.     H. 
DUCHESS    OF 

WESTMINSTER. 

(Eckford,  1900.) 

Apricot   flushed 

pink;  wings  rose 

pink.     S.  H. 
DUCHESS   OF 

YORK.*      (Eck- 
ford, 

White 

with 


DOROTHY  ECKFORD. 
Representing  the  slightly  hooded  type. 


1895.) 

striped 
pinkish 
purple.    E. 
DUDLEY     LEES.** 

(Breadmore,  1908.)     A  deep  maroon.     S.  H. 
DUKE  OF  CLARENCE.*     (Eckford,   1893.)     Rosy  claret.     H. 
DUKE  OF  SUTHERLAND.     (Eckford,    1898.)     Standard  deep 

claret;    wings   deep   violet   blue.     H. 
DUKE  OF  WESTMINSTER.    (Eckford,  1899.)    Rosy  claret.     H. 
DUKE  OF  YORK.*     (Eckford,    1895.)     Standard  rosy  pink; 

wings  white.     E. 

EARL  CROMER.     (Eckford,  1907.)     Standard  reddish  mauve; 
wings  large,  of  the  same  deep  rich  mauve.     H. 
79 


SWEET   PEAS   UP  TO   DATE 


EARLIEST  OF  ALL.  (Burpee,  1898.)  Flowers  fully  ten  days 
earlier  than  Extra  Early  Blanche  Ferry,  bearing  a  profusion 
of  beautifully  tinted  flowers.  Standard  bright,  rosy  pink; 
wings  creamy  white,  suffused  pale  rose.  Planted  under 
glass  in  September,  the  vines  begin  to  bloom  in  Novem- 
ber. E. 

EARLIEST  OF  ALL  RE-SELECTED  EXTREME  EARLY.  (Burpee, 
1902.)  This  strain  is  as  much  earlier  than  Earliest  of  All 
as  that  variety  is  ahead  of  Extra  Early  Blanche  Ferry. 
The  plants  come  into  full  flower  when  only  twelve  inches 
high.  Christmas  Pink  is  similar.  E. 

EARLIEST  WHITE.  (Burpee,  1906.)  This  was  discovered 
in  a  field  of  the  Re-Selected  Burpee's  Earliest  of  All.  There 
was  only  one  plant  and  this  produced  pure  white  flowers. 
A  crop  planted  July  i2th  came  in  bloom  August  2oth,  while 
the  plants  of  Mont  Blanc  planted  on  the  same  day  showed 
no  sign  of  bloom.  The  plant  is  unusually  sturdy  and  of 
dwarf  and  even  growth.  The  best  white  for  greenhouse.  E. 

EASTERN  QUEEN.*  (Introducer  and  year  of  introduction 
unknown.)  Cream  ground,  slightly  flaked. 

ELEGANCE.     (Stark,  1909.)     White,  feathered  orange. 

ELFRIDA.*  (Johnson,  1904.)  Primrose,  lightly  striped  rose. 
E. 

ELIZA  ECKFORD.*  (Eckford,  1895.)  Flesh  pink,  suffused 
rose  and  white.  H. 

EMILY  ECKFORD.  (Eckford,  1893.)  Rosy  mauve  changing 
to  light  blue.  S.  H. 

EMILY  HENDERSON.     (Henderson,  1894.)    White.     E. 

EMILY  LYNCH.*  (Lynch,  1897.)  Standard  scarlet  rose; 
wings  primrose  tinged  pink.  H. 

EMPRESS  OF  INDIA.*-  (Eckford,  1891.)  Standard  rose,  with 
white  wings.  E. 

ETNA.*  (Laxton,  1892.)  A  dark  brownish  crimson  and  vio- 
let. E. 

EVELYN   BREADMORE.**     (Breadmore,  1906.)     Blush  white, 
slightly  tinged  pink.     S.  H. 
80 


GRANDIFLORA    VARIETIES 


EVELYN  BYATT.  (Wat kins  &  Simpson,  1906.)  Standard 
scarlet  orange,  with  rosy  wings.  E. 

EVENING  STAR.*  (Vaughan,  1904.)  Primrose,  shaded  light 
pink.  E. 

EXQUISITE.     (Bath,  1912.)     White,  veined  blue. 

FAIRY  QUEEN.*  (Haage  &  Schmidt,  1872.)  White  with 
faint  carmine  pencilings  on  throat.  E. 

FASCINATION.*  (Eckford,  1900.)  Magenta  mauve;  wings 
deep  mauve.  H. 

FASHION.*  (Burpee,  1899.)  A  soft  shade  of  reddish  lav- 
ender, deepening  at  base  of  standard.  Similar  to  Colonist. 
H. 

FINETTA  BATHURST.**  (Bathurst-Mackereth,  1908.)  Pure 
white.  E. 

FIREFLY.*     (Eckford,  1893.)     Scarlet  crimson.     E. 

FLORA  NORTON.  (Vaughan,  1904.)  A  beautiful  rich  lav- 
ender, almost  a  bright  blue.  E. 

FLORENCE  FRAZER.**  (Vaughan,  1904.)  Standard  bright 
crimson  rose;  wings  white  tinged  pink.  E. 

FLORENCE  MOLYNEAUX.**  (Dobbie,  1905.)  Cream  flaked 
with  rose.  E. 

GAIETY.*  (Eckford,  1893.)  Standard  flaked  with  cerise 
pink;  wings  striped  rosy  purple,  S.  H. 

GEORGE  GORDON.*  (Eckford,  1901.)  Claret  red,  self 
colored,  but  turns  to  a  dull  purple  with  age.  H. 

GLADYS  DEAL.**  An  English  name  for  the  American  va- 
riety, Mrs.  Geo.  Higginson.  S.  H. 

GLADYS  FRENCH.**  (Unwin,  1909.)  A  light  blue  Helen 
Pierce. 

GOLDEN  GATE.*  (Burpee,  1897.)  Pinkish  mauve  and  lav- 
ender. S.  H. 

GOLDEN  GLEAM.*  (Sunset  Co.,  1897.)  Color  creamy  yellow. 
Nearly  identical  with  Mrs.  Eckford.  S.  H. 

GOLDEN  ROSE.  (Burpee,  1902.)  The  ground  color  is  a 
clear  primrose  yellow,  beautifully  flushed  with  rosy  pink- 
S.  H. 

81 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


GORGEOUS.      (Burpee,      1899.)      Standard     salmon-orange; 

wings  heavily  suffused  orange-salmon.     E. 
GRACIE    GREENWOOD.*     (Eckford,     1902.)     Cream    shaded 

with  delicate  pink.     S.  H. 
GRAND  BLUE.*     (Eckford,    1886.)     Clear,  light  blue  color, 

same  as  Imperial  Blue.     H. 
GRAY     FRIAR."*     (Burpee,     1896.)     Heavily     shaded     with 

watered  purple  markings  on  creamy  white  ground.     H. 
G.  W.  KERR.     (Baker's,  1909.)     Coral  pink. 
HANNAH   DALE.**     (Dobbie,    1908.)     A  large,  rich  maroon 

self.     S.  H. 

v  HAROLD.     (House,  1910.)     Primrose  self. 
'HELEN  PIERCE.     (Morse,   1905.)     The  color  is  very  bright 

blue,  mottled  on  pure  white.     Decidedly  the  best  mottled 

variety.     E. 
HENRY  ECKFORD.     (Eckford,    1906.)     Bright,  soft,  flaming 

orange,   deepening  slightly   in   the  center  of  the  flower. 

This  variety  requires  shading  with  cheesecloth  to  prevent 

scalding  in  bright  weather.     E. 
HERBERT   SMITH.**     (Sydenham,    1908.)     A    bi-color  after 

the  style  of  Evelyn  Byatt.     E. 
HER  MAJESTY.     (Eckford,  1893.)     Rosy  pink.     H. 
HESTER.**     (Hemus,   1907.)     Blue  striped,  and  appears  to 

be  the  same  as  Marbled  Blue.     E. 

HETTY  GREEN.*     (Ward-Bolton,  1907.)     Bright  orange  scar- 
let; wings  rosy  crimson.     E. 
HILDA  JEFFERY.**     (Breadmore,  1907.)     Color  creamy  rose. 

S.  H. 
H.  J.  R.  DIGGES.*     (Eckford,  1908.)     Bright  claret  shaded 

maroon.     S.  H.. 
HON.     F.     BOUVERIE.     (Eckford,     1899.)     Pinkish    salmon 

standard;  wings  shaded  to  a  lighter  salmon-buff.     S.  H. 
HON.    MRS.    E.    KENYON.     (Eckford,    1901.)     A    beautiful 
*i  primrose  color.     E. 
HORACE  WRIGHT.     (Eckford,  1907.)    A  self.    A  rich  violet 

blue  color.     S.  H. 

82 


GRANDIFLORA    VARIETIES 


Bright    scarlet    crimson    with 


Blue  and  mauve,  same 


IGNEA.**     (Eckford,    1892.) 
purple  wings.     S.  H. 

IMPERIAL  BLUE.*     (Eckford,  1886.) 
as  Grand  Blue.     H. 

IMPERIAL  PURPLE.*  (Introducer  and  date  of  introduction 
unknown.)  Purple  with  blue  shading.  E. 

INCONSTANCY.**  (Ferry,  1902.)  White  and  primrose  flow- 
ers on  same^plant.  E. 

INDIGO  KING.*  (Eckford,  1885.)  Dark  maroon  purple 
standard  with  indigo  blue  wings.  Autocrat  is  synonymous. 
H. 

INVINCIBLE  BLACK.*  (Introducer  unknown,  1871.)  Dark 
claret.  E. 

INVINCIBLE  BLUE.* 
(Laxton,  1888.) 
Dark  blue.  E. 

INVINCIBLE  CAR- 
MINE.* (Laxton, 
1885.)  A  brilliant, 
glowing  carmine. 
E. 

INVINCIBLE  SCAR- 
LET.* (S.  Brown- 
Carter,  1866.) 
Crimson  scarlet. 
E.  S. 

INVINCIBLE  SCARLET 
STRIPED  WITH 
WHITE.*  (Intro- 
ducer and  date  of 
introduction  unknown.)  Red,  striped  with  white. 

INVINCIBLE  STRIPED.*  (Carter,  1874.)  Crimson  striped 
white.  E. 

ISA  ECKFORD.*  (Eckford,  1886.)  White  suffused  rosy  pink.  E. 

IVY   MILLER.**     (Miller,    1908.)     White   edged  with   blue. 
S.  H.     Similar  to  Maid  of  Honor. 
83 


JANET  SCOTT. 

Hooded  type. 


SWEET    PEAS   UP  TO   DATE 


JAMES  GRIEVE.**     (Eckford,  1908.)     A  large  sulphur  yellow. 

E. 
JANET  SCOTT.     (Burpee,  1903.)     This  might  be  called  a  new 

shade  of  rich  pink.     The  unusual  size  of  the  wings  with  the 

large,  substantial,  hooded  standard,  gives  the  flower  an  ap- 
pearance of  enormous  size.     H. 
JEANNIE  GORDON.     (Eckford,  1902.)     Standard  rose,  shaded 

cream;  wings  creamy  suffused  rose.     S.  H. 
JESSIE  CUTHBERTSON.     (Dobbie,  1903.)     Flaked  and  striped 

salmon  rose  on  a  cream  ground.     S.  H. 
JET.     (Aldersey-Sydenham,  1909.)     Similar  to  Midnight. 
JOSEPHINE  WHITE.**     (Ferry,  1902.)     White.     E. 
J.  T.  CRIER.*     (Breadmore,  1907.)     A  lavender  self. 
JUANITA.*     (Burpee,    1896.)     Color   pure   white,    delicately 

lined  and  striped  with  pale  lavender.     H. 
KATHERINE     TRACY.*     (Ferry,     1896.)      Soft     rosy     pink, 

lighter  at  edges.     E. 
KING   EDWARD  VII.     (Eckford,    1903.)     A  bright   crimson 

self,  large,  with  three  flowers  borne  on  a  strong,  stout  stem. 

S.  H. 
LADY  ABERDARE.*     (Breadmore,    1904.)     Soft   light   pink, 

self  colored.     H. 
LADY  BEACONSFIELD.*     (Eckford,  1892.)     Standard  salmon 

pink;  wings  primrose  yellow.     E. 
LADY    COOPER.**     (Breadmore,    1906.)     A    clear,    lavender 

self.     S.  H. 
LADY  GRISEL  HAMILTON.     (Eckford,  1899.)     Light  lavender 

standard  with  azure  blue  wings.     H. 
LADY    MARY   CURRIE.     (Eckford,    1898.)    A    deep   orange 

pink.     H. 
LADY  M.  ORMSBY-GORE.     (Eckford,  1901.)     Pale  buff  tipped 

deep  buff,  overlaid  with  delicate  pink.     H. 
LADY  NINA   BALFOUR.     (Eckford,    1897.)     Delicate  mauve 

shaded  dove  gray.     H. 
LADY    PENZANCE.*     (Eckford,    1894.)     Rose    pink,    tinged 

orange-salmon.    H. 

84 


GRANDIFLORA    VARIETIES 


LADY    SKELMERSDALE.*     (Eckford,    1899.)     Light    carmine 

standard,  shading  to  white.     S.  H. 
LEMON  QUEEN.*     (Eckford,  1892.)     White  tinted  with  lemon 

and  blush.     E. 
LIGHT  BLUE  AND  PURPLE.*     (Introducer  unknown,   1700.) 

Dark  maroon  with  blue  shadings.     E. 
LITTLE    DORRIT.*     (Eckford,    1897.)     Standard    clear   rosy 

pink;  wings  white,  suffused  rose.     E. 
LORD  KEN  YON.     (Eckford,  1900.)     Bright  rose  pink.     H. 
LORD    NELSON.     (House,    1907.)     A  rich,  deep  navy    blue. 

This  is  identical  with  Burpee's  Brilliant  Blue.     E. 
LORD    ROSEBERY.     (Eckford,    1902.)     A   self   colored    rosy 

magenta.     H. 

LOTTIE    ECKFORD.     (Eckford,    1894.)     White   ground,    del- 
icately edged  lavender  blue.     H. 
LOTTIE  HUTCHINS.*     (Burpee,  1898.)     Flaked  pink  on  cream 

ground.     S.  H. 

LOVELY.     (Eckford,  1895.)     Pink;  wings  delicate  rose.     H. 
LUMINOSA.     (Eckford,  191 1.)     Coral-colored  self. 
MADAME  CARNOT.*     (Laxton,  1892.)    A  blue  self.     H. 
MADELINE  COLE.     (Stark,  1910.)     Pale  lavender. 
MAGGIE  GERRING.     (Eckford,  191 1.)     Cream  self. 
MAID  OF  HONOR.     (Burpee,  1897.)     Light  blue  on  a  white 

ground,  shaded  and  edged.     Similar  to  Lottie  Eckford  but 

a  better  flower.     S.  H. 
MAJESTIC.*     (Burpee,  1901.)     Standard  is  a  deep  rose  pink, 

while  wings    are    also   deep    rose,    but    rather   softer  in 

tone.     H. 
MARBLED    BLUE.**     (Sutton,    1906.)    White,    striped    and 

flaked  blue.     E. 
MARCHIONESS  OF  CHOLMONDELEY.     (Eckford,    1904.)    Soft 

shade  of  cream  overlaid  with  pink.     H. 
MARS.*     (Eckford,  1895.)     Rich  crimson  self.     H. 
MAY    PERRETT.**     (Eckford,    1908.)     Ivory    flushed    with 

buff.     E. 

MEMENTO.**    Synonymous  with  Flora  Norton.     E. 

85 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


METEOR.*     (Eckford,  1895.)     Orange-salmon  standard  with 

pink  wings.'    E. 
MID  BLUE.     (Dobbie,  1909.)     Of  medium  size;   color  deep, 

sky-blue.     E. 

MIDNIGHT  ("JET").     (Burpee,   1908.)     Standard  deep  pur- 
plish maroon,  almost  black;  wings  darkest  claret.     S.  H. 
MIKADO.*     (Eckford,    1896.)     Rose    crimson    striped    with 

white.     H. 

MILDRED  WARD.**    (Sydenham,  1907.)    Orange-scarlet.     E. 
MILLIE    MASLIN.     (Sydenham,    1908.)     Rich   rosy   crimson 

self.     Very  much  deeper  than  Prince  of  Wales.     S.  H. 
MIMA  JOHNSTON.**     (Eckford,  1908.)     Bright  rose  carmine. 

E. 

Miss  BOSTOCK.**     (Hemus,  1907.)     Cream  and  pink.     H. 
Miss  H.  C.  PHILBRICK.**     (Stark,  1905.)     Mauve  overlaid 

with  clear  blue.     We  consider  this  identical  with  Flora 

Norton.     E. 
Miss    HUNT.*     (Eckford,    1887.)     Standard    pale    carmine 

salmon;  wings  soft  pink.     E. 
Miss    WILLMOTT.     (Eckford,     1901.)     Rich    orange    pink; 

delicately  shaded  rose.     S.  H. 

MODESTY.      (Burpee,   1898.)     In  strong  sunlight  it  is  seem- 
ingly a  silvery  white,  but  the  suffused  pink  tint  is  shown  on 

closer  examination.     H. 
MONARCH.*     (Eckford,    1891.)     Standard    bronzy   crimson; 

wings,  violet.     H. 
MONT  BLANC.     (Senary,  1900.)     Extremely  early  flowering; 

white  self,  Florence  Denzer  is  synonymous.     E. 
MOTHER  o'  PEARL.**     (Sydenham-Aldersey,  1909.)     Silvery 

lavender.     S.  H. 
MRS.    A.    MALCOLM.**     (Malcolm-King,     1909.)     Primrose 

self.     E. 
MRS.  BIEBERSTEDT.**     (Biebcrstedt,  1908.)     A  lovely  deep 

lavender  self.     S.  H. 
MRS.    CHARLES    MASTERS.**     (Eckford,    1909.)     Standard 

rosy  salmon;  wings  cream. 

86 


GRANDIFLORA    VARIETIES 


MRS.   COLLIER.     (Dobbie,    1907.)     In   form   and  substance 

it   resembles    Dorothy    Eckford.     The  flowers   are   large, 

coming  in  threes  and  fours  on  long,  stiff  stems  and  of  a  rich, 

primrose  tint,  entirely  free  from  any  trace  of  pink.     S.  H. 
MRS.    DUGDALE.     (Eckford,     1899.)     Light    carmine    rose, 

with  faint  markings  of  primrose.      S.  H. 
MRS.  ECKFORD.     (Eckford,  1891.)     A  primrose  self.     S.  H. 
MRS.  E.  OILMAN.     (Eckford,  1909.)     Light  rose  bicolor. 
MRS.   FITZGERALD.**     (Eckford,    1900.)     Buff  flushed  with 

a  tinge  of  pink.     Synonymous  with  Stella  Morse.     S.  H. 
MRS.  GEORGE  HIGGINSON,  JR.     (Vaughan,   1904.)     A  very 

delicate  lavender.     E. 

MRS.  GLADSTONE.*     (Eckford,  1890.)     Soft  flesh  pink.     E. 
MRS.    H.    KENDALL-BARNES.**     (Dobbie,    1905.)     Standard 

rich  apricot;  wings  creamy  buff.     S.  H. 
MRS.  Jos.  CHAMBERLAIN.     (Eckford,  1895.)     Ground  color  is 

a  clear  silvery  white,  brightly  striped  soft  rosy  pink.     S.  H. 
MRS.     KNIGHT-SMITH.**     (Eckford,     1904.)     A    pink    self, 

hooded,  with  large  open  wings.     Not  fixed.     H. 
MRS.   R.   F.   FELTON.**     (Bolton,    1907.)     Primrose  yellow 

self.     Synonymous  with  Mrs.  Collier.     S.  H. 
MRS.  R.  M.SHELTON.**  (Baker,  1909.)  Rosy  carmine. self.  H. 
MRS.  R.  MASSEY.     (Bide,  1910.)     Pinkish  lilac,  buff  ground. 
MRS.     SANKEY.*     (Eckford,     1890.)     Pure    white:      black 

seeded.     H. 
MRS.  WALTER  WRIGHT.     (Eckford,  1903.)     The  standard  is 

a  beautiful  shade  of  mauve,  clear  and  bright,  while  the 

wings  are  a  bright  caerulean  blue,  slightly  shaded  with  the 

mauve  color  of  the  standard.     H. 
NAVY  BLUE.     (Burpee,   1899.)     General   color   effect    dark 

blue;    standard  brilliant  royal  purple;   wings  pure  violet; 

the  whole  flower  elegantly  veined  in  sharp  relief.     S.  H. 
NEW    COUNTESS.     (Burpee,     1897.)     Pure    light    lavender 

throughout  both  on  standard  and  wings.     An  Improved 

Countess  of  Radnor  in  which  is  eliminated  the  reddish  cast 

in  standard.     H. 

87 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO    DATE 


NIGGER.*     (House,  1905.)     Very  dark  maroon,  nearly  black. 

H. 
NOVELTY.*     (Eckford,  1895.)     Standard  orange  rose;  wings 

delicate  mauve.     E. 
NYMPHAEA.*     (Vaughan,    1904.)     White    turning    to  pink. 

S.  H. 
ODDITY.*     (Burpee,  1896.)     Pale  carmine  edged  with  bright 

rose.     S.  H. 
ORANGE   PRINCE.*     (Eckford,    1886.)     Bright  orange  pink. 

E. 
OREGONIA.*     (Walker,  1895.)     White  striped  with  brownish 

red.     S.  H. 

ORIENTAL.*     (Burpee,  1898.)     Rich  orange  flowers.     H. 
OTHELLO.     (Eckford,    1899.)     A    deep    maroon    self   color; 

very  large  size;  standard  slightly  hooded.     S.  H. 
OVID.*     (Eckford,    1894.)     Bright   rosy  pink  with  crimson 

veins  in  both  standard  and  wings.     H. 
PAINTED  LADY.*     (Introducer  not  known,  1700.)     Standard 

rose;  wings  white  tinged  with  pink.     E. 
PEACH  BLOSSOM.*     (Eckford,  1894.)     Light  salmon  pink  and 

buff.     E. 

PERDITA.     (Bath,  1910.)     White,  marbled  pink. 
PHENOMENAL.     (Henderson,     1905.)     White,     shaded     and 

edged  lilac.     E. 
PINK    FRIAR.*     (Burpee,     1899.)     White,    lightly    marbled 

light  rose  crimson.     Large  size.     H. 
PINK  SNAPDRAGON.*     (Burpee,  1903.)     Soft  shell  pink. 
PRIMA  DONNA.      (Eckford,  1896.)     A  pure  pink  self.     H. 
PRIMROSE.*     (Eckford,  1889.)     Primrose  self.     E. 
PRINCE    EDWARD    OF    YORK.     (Eckford,     1897.)     Crimson 

scarlet  standard.     Crimson  wings;    large  open  form.     E. 
PRINCE  OLAF.     (Dobbie,  1908.)     The  bold,  effective  flowers 

are  striped  and  mottled  bright  blue  on  white  ground;   of 

good  size  with  erect  standard.     E. 
PRINCE  OF  WALES.     (Eckford,  1898.)    A  large,  bright  rose 

self.    S.  H. 


GRANDIFLORA    VARIETIES 


PRINCESS   BEATRICE.*     (Hurst,    1883.)     A  light   pink    self. 

Syn.,  Carmine  Rose.     E. 
PRINCESS  LOUISE.*     (Introducer  and  date  of  introduction 

unknown, — probably  first  offered  in  1895.)     Magenta-pink 

standard;  lilac  wings.     E. 
PRINCESS   MAUD  OF   WALES.**     (Eckford,    1906.)     A  pale 

colored  Coccinea.     E. 
PRINCESS   MAY.*     (Laxton,    1893.)     Pale  mauve  standard; 

lavender  wings.     E. 
PRINCESS    OF    WALES.*     (Eckford,    1885.)     White    striped 

mauve  and  purple.     H. 
PRINCESS  VICTORIA.**     (Eckford,    1891.)     Cerise  standard; 

wings  more  pink.     E. 
PURPLE.*     (Introducer  and  date  of  introduction  unknown.) 

A  rich  shade  coming  between  Boreatton  and  Black.     E. 
PURPLE  BROWN.*    An  old  dark-striped  form. 
PURPLE  KING.**     (Eckford,  1908.)     Purple,  shaded  indigo. 

E. 

PURPLE    PRINCE.*     (Eckford,    1886.)     Standard    dark   ma- 
roon; wings  purple.     H. 
PURPLE   STRIPED.*     (Introducer  and   date  of  introduction 

unknown.)     An    old    variety;     purple   striped   on    white 

ground.     E. 
QUEEN  ALEXANDRA.     (Eckford,    1906.)     An.  intense  bright 

scarlet  self.     E. 

QUEEN  OF  ENGLAND.*     (Eckford,  1887.)    White  self.     E. 
QUEEN   OF   PINKS.**     (Sutton,    1901.)     Pure  salmon  pink. 

S.  H. 
QUEEN   OF   SPAIN.     (Eckford,    1907.)     A   new  pearly  pink 

self.     S.  H. 
QUEEN  OF  THE   ISLES.     (Eckford,    1885.)     Crimson  scarlet 

striped  on  a  white  ground.     S.  H. 

QUEEN  VICTORIA.     (Eckford,  1897.)     A  light  yellow  or  prim- 
rose self.     H. 
RAMONA.*     (Burpee,  1896.)     Light  pink,  striped  on  a  white 

ground.     S.  H. 

89 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


RED  RIDING  HOOD.*     (Sunset  Seed  and  Plant  Co.,   1897.) 

Snapdragon  form;  crimson. 
REGINA.**     (Bolton-Sharpe,    1908.)     A   large   maroon    self. 

E. 
RISING   SUN.*     (Laxton,    1892.)     Standard    a   bright,    rosy 

orange;   blush  wings.     E. 
ROMOLO  PIAZZANI.     (Eckford,  1905.)     A  violet  blue  self  of 

large  size.     S.  H. 

ROSEATE.     (Aldersey,  1912.)     Salmon-rose  and  orange. 
ROSE    DU     BARRI.     (Dickson-Burpee,     1911.)     Salmon-rose 

and  coral. 

ROSE  QUEEN.**  (Stark, 
1905.)  A  rosy  pink 
self.  S.  H. 

ROYAL  ROBE.*  (Eckford 
1894.)  A  light  pink 
self.  H. 

ROYAL  ROSE.  (Eckford, 
1894.)  Standard  crim- 
son pink,  deepening  at 
center;  wings  pink.  S. 
H. 

SADIE  BURPEE  W.  S. 
(Eckford,  1899.)  Pure 
white  flower  of  large 
size.  H. 

SADIE  BURPEE  B.  S. 
(Eckford,  1899.)  Pure 
white,  the  flowers  show 

a  delicate  pink  flush  in  the  standard  when  first   opened. 
H. 

SAFRANO.     (Gilbert,  191 1.)     Primrose. 
SAINT  GEORGE.     (Hurst,   1908.)     Scarlet  orange  self;    large 
and  very  bright;  awarded  the  Silver  Medal  of  the  National 
Sweet  Pea  Society,  1907.     A  great  improvement  on  Gor- 
geous and  Evelyn  By  ait.     E. 
90 


ECKFORD'S  "SADIE   BURPEE.1 
Intensely  hooded  type. 


GRANDIFLORA   VARIETIES 


SALMON  QUEEN.     (Clark,  19 ia)     Carmine-scarlet. 
SALOPIAN.     (Eckford,    1897.)     A    rich,    dark   crimson    self. 

H. 
SALVATION  LASSIE.*     (Burpee,    1902.)     Light  carmine,  the 

standard  and  wings  both  hooded  like  a  Salvation   Army 

bonnet. 

SAPPHIRE.     (Aldersey,  1912.)     Indigo-blue. 
SCARLET  GEM«*    (Eckford,  1904.)     Bright  scarlet.     E. 
SCARLET  STRIPED  WITH  WHITE.*       (Introducer  and  date  of 

introduction  unknown.)     One  of  the  old  varieties  and  dis- 
carded some  time  ago. 
SENATOR.     (Eckford,  1891.)     Creamy  white  ground,  striped 

chocolate.     H. 
SENSATION.*     (Burpee,    1898.)     Standard    pink    and    buff. 

Wings  white.     S.  H. 
SHAHZADA.*     (Eckford,  1897.)     Du^  maroon,  shaded  purple. 

S.  H. 
SHASTA.     (Morse,    1905.)     When  first  opening  the  flowers 

have  a  creamy  tint  which  changes  to  an  ivory  white  when 

fully  expanded.     E. 

SNAPDRAGON.*     (Burpee,  1900.)     White  shaded  pink;  flow- 
ers are  like  a  Snapdragon  bud. 
SPECKLED   BEAUTY.*     (Vaughan,    1904.)     Primrose  ground, 

marbled  with  crimson.     H. 
SPLENDID  LILAC.*     (Of  German  origin,  first  offered  in  1869.) 

Dull  purple  magenta  standard;   wings  white,  tinged  lil^c. 

E. 
SPLENDOUR.*     (Eckford,    1887.)     Deep    rosy   crimson    self, 

with  slightly  paler  wings.     H. 
STANLEY.     (Eckford,  1890.)     Self  colored  in  darkest  maroon 

of  burnished  tint.     E. 
STELLA   MORSE.      (Burpee,    1898.)      Has   a   faint   tinge   of 

pink   underlying  the    cream,   producing    a   true    apricot 

shade.     H.  ' 
SUE    EARL.**     (Burpee,    1903.)     Standard    primrose,    with 

mauve  edges;  wings  primrose.     H. 


SWEET   PEAS   UP   TO   DATE 


SUNBEAMS,  EARLIEST.  (Burpee,  1904.)  This  might  be 
described  as  a  primrose  "Mont  Blanc. "  The  flowers  are 
of  a  rich  primrose  color  and  generally  borne  three  on  a  long 
stem.  E. 

SUNPROOF  SALOPIAN.     (Burpee,  1900.)    This  was  the  finest 

scarlet  until  the  in- 
troduction of  King 
Edward  Vll  and 
Queen  Alexandra.  H. 
SUNRISE.**  (Vaughan, 
1904.)  A  bright  pink 
on  primrose  ground. 
E. 

SUNSET.**     (Vaughan, 
1904.)     Primrose 
striped  dark  rose.  H. 
SWEET         LAVENDER. 
(Bath,  1910.)  White, 
marbled  lavender. 
SYBIL  ECKFORD.   (Eck- 
ford,  1906.)     Stand- 
ard creamy  buff  with 
slight  pink  or  apri- 
cot,     large,      open, 
'  creamy  wings.     E. 
THE  BRIDE.*     (Lynch, 
1897.)     White    self. 
S.  H. 

THE  FAIRY.**     (John- 
son,  1907.)     Laven- 
der   and    white    on 
same  stem. 
Rosy  pink,  reflexing  stand- 


EARLIEST  SUNBEAMS. 
Early -flower  ing  type. 


THE  QUEEN.     (Eckford,  1886.) 

ard,  shaded  with  mauve.     E. 
TRIUMPH.     (Eckford,    1897.)     Creamy   white   ground, 

fused  with  salmon  pink  and  tinged  with  carmine.     E. 
92 


suf- 


GRANDIFLORA    VARIETIES 


TRUE  LAVENDER.**  (Bath,  1909.)  In  color  same  as  Mrs. 
George  Higginson,  Jr.  Standard  notched  on  sides. 

TWEEDY  SMITH.*  (Breadmore,  1906.)  Standard  rose  pink; 
wings  rose  suffused  pink.  H. 

UNIQUE.  (Stark,  1906.)  White  ground,  striped  pale  lav- 
ender blue.  S.  H. 

VENUS.  (Eckford,  1891.)  Lovely  salmon  buff,  shaded  with 
rosy  pink.  fL 

VESUVIUS.*  (Laxton,  1888.)  Claret  color,  shading  lighter 
at  the  edges.  E. 

VICOMTE  DE  JANTZE.     (Eckford,  1909.)     Rose  self. 

VIOLET  QUEEN.*     (Carter,  1877.)     Clear  violet  color.     E. 

WAVERLEY.*  (Eckford,  1892.)  Rosy  claret  standard,  blue 
wings.  H. 

WAWONA.*  (Burpee,  1898.)  Striped  lavender  lilac  on  a 
white  ground.  H. 

WHITE  SNAPDRAGON.*  (Burpee,  1902.)  White  snapdragon- 
like  flowers. 

WHITE  WONDER.  (Burpee,  1904.)  The  flowers  are  pure 
white  and  of  largest  size  and  sometimes  borne  six  to  eight 
on  a  long,  stout  stem,  many  of  the  flowers  being  double.  E. 

XENOPHON.  (Morse-Burpee,  1912.)  This  is  a  double  stand- 
ard form  of  Phenomenal. 

YELLOW  HAMMER.**     (Breadmore,  1909.)     Sulphur  yellow. 

ZARINA.*  (Hemus,  1908.)  A  pearl  pink  self,  being  an  ex- 
panded form  of  Queen  of  Spain.  E. 

ZERO.**     (Hemus,  1907.)     An  early  pure  white.     E. 

ZOE.**  (Biffen-Unwin,  1906.)  A  clear,  shining  blue.  Sim- 
ilar to  Mid  Blue.  E. 


93 


SWEET   PEAS   UP  TO   DATE 


CUPID  SWEET  PEAS 

This  distinct  type  of  dwarf  Sweet  Peas  was  intro- 
duced by  W.  ATLEE  BURPEE  &  Co.  in  1896  and  does 
well  in  dry  seasons  and  on  soils  which  become  hard 
during  hot  weather.  The  plants  are  of  low,  spreading 
habit,  with  dense  green  foliage,  and  attain  a  height  of 
from  six  to  nine  inches.  The  plants  root  deeply  and 
flower  most  freely  in  hot,  dry  seasons.  They  are  also 
adapted  for  pot  culture,  but  in  growing  them  the 
foliage  should  never  be  watered;  always  water  round 
or  between  the  plants.  A  peculiarity  about  the  Cupids 
is  that  they  are  quite  devoid  of  fragrance. 

At  one  time  there  was  listed  fully  twenty  varieties, 
but  now  only  the  following  are  offered  by  us: 

PINK  CUPID 

WHITE  CUPID 

MIXED  CUPID 

BURPEE'S  BUSH  SWEET  PEAS 
The  plants  are  semi-erect,  fifteen  to  eighteen  inches 
high  when  in  full  flower,  but  branching  freely  so  that 
the  close  bushes  are  frequently  fifteen  inches  and  more 
in  diameter,  composed  of  short  erect  branches  with 
abundant  light-green  foliage.  The  tendrils  at  ends  of 
the  leaves  clasp  themselves  closely  to  the  adjoining 
branches,  so  that  the  whole  plant  is  held  quite  erect 
though  sufficiently  open  to  admit  of  a  freer  circulation 
of  air  than  in  the  low  compact  form  of  the  Cupid  type. 
As  these  have  not  met  with  the  success  anticipated, 
they  have  been  discarded.  We  understand  in  some 
parts  of  England  florists  are  growing  these  for  cutting 
with  larger  part  of  foliage. 

94 


The  late  HENRY  ECKFORD,  V.  M.  H., 
Who  died  at  Wem,  England,  December  5,  1905,  aged  82  years. 

While  other  men,  including  his  son,  are  doing  good  work  on  the 
sweet  pea,  it  was  he  alone  who  blazed  the  way  for  others  to  follow. 
Born  in  Scotland  at  Stonehouse,  near  Edinburgh,  on  May  17,  1823, 
he  began  as  an  apprentice  in  1839  in  the  Gardens  of  Lord  Lovat, 
Beaufort  Castle,  Inverness,  In  1854  he  was  appointed  head  gardener 
to  the  Earl  of  Radnor  at  Coleshill,  Berkshire,  where  during  his  stay 
of  twenty  years  he  raised  many  new  dahlias,  pelargoniums  and 
verbenas.  In  the  year  1870  he  accepted  the  invitation  of  Dr.  Sankey 
to  take  charge  of  his  gardens  at  Sandywell,  Gloucester,  with  the  view 
of  raising  new  seedlings  of  florists'  flowers.  At  this  time  no  one  had 
thought  of  any  radical  improvement  in  sweet  peas  and  Mr.  Eckford's 
magnificent  work  was  begun  in  1879. 

As  long  as  the  sweet  pea  is  cultivated  the  name  of  HENRY  ECKFORD 
will  be  cherished  and  revered.  To  few  men  is  it  possible  to  do  so 
much  for  their  day  and  generation. 


95 


TRELLISES 

For  those  who  prefer  a  trellis,  we  give  illustrations 
of  four  of  the  most  practical,  such  as  have  given  entire 
satisfaction  at  FORDHOOK  FARMS. 


Make  supports  of  com- 
mon furring  strips,  also  top 
rail.    Set  supports  eight  feet 
apart.     For  horizontal  wires  use  No.  16 
galvanized.   Avoid  knotty  lumber.  Run 
wires  from  every  dot,  twenty-six  in  all. 
Height    above    ground    six   feet,    and 
twelve  inches  wide. 


96 


TRELLISES 


Set  the  supports  eight 
feet  apart.  For  horizontal 
wires  use  about  No.  16  gal- 
vanized. Have  the  lower 
wires  come  just  outside  the 
double  row  of  vines.  Make 
supports  and  top  rail  of 
pine  or  spruce  one  and  a 
quarter  by  two  and  a  quarter  inches.  Height  above 
ground  six  feet,  and  twelve  inches  wide  at  base. 


97 


SWEET    PEAS    UP   TO   DATE 


^ 


This  trellis  is  made  of 
part  twine.  1 1  has  three- 
inch-square  posts,  and  an  upper  and 
lower  frame  of  furring  strips.  At  each 
end  are  two  perpendicular  wires  of  No. 
10  galvanized,  and  running  lengthwise 
are  two  horizontal  wires  of  the  same. 
The  diamond  work  can  be  made  of 
strong  twine,  and  should  be  fastened 
both  at  the  middle  wire  and  top  and  bottom  strips. 
Have  the  rows  of  vines  come  inside.  Set  posts  eight 
feet  apart.  One  foot  is  enough  for  width. 


98 


TRELLISES 


Made  of  coarse  meshed 
poultry    wire.       It    can 
sometimes     be     bought 
with  seven    inch    mesh. 
Posts  three-inch-square  stuff,  and  top 
and  bottom  rails  as  per  cut.     Set  posts 
ten  feet  apart.     Height  six  feet.     It  is 
well  to  run  three  horizontal  wires  on 
each  side  about  six  inches  out  to  hold 
the  mass  of  vines  where  they  fail  to 
fasten  securely. 


99 


FOUR  "DONTS." 

T-X       >*    expect  Sweet  Peas  to  thrive  in  soil  too  poor 
for  any  other  culture,  or  in  a  sunless  location. 
They  need,  as  nearly  as  possible,  a  free  deep  loam,  mod- 
erately rich  and  freely  cultivated. 

sow   too   shallow.     Plant  the  seed  not  less 
than  two  inches  deep,  and  when  the  plants 

are  two  or  three  inches  high  draw  the  soil  up  to  them 

in  ridge  form. 

overfeed.  With  a  view  to  obtaining  vigor- 
ous growth  and  profusion  of  bloom,  bone,  in 
Some  form,  is  the  best  fertilizer.  Nitrate  of  soda  will  do 
for  a  "hurry-up"  stimulant,  should  such  be  needed; 
but  use  it  sparingly. 

Dnn't   8atner   tne   blooms   grudgingly.    The   more 
you  cut  the  longer  the  vine  will  continue  to 
flower.     Remember,  when  they  go  to  seed  Sweet  Peas 
will  cease  flowering. 


100 


THIS  BOOK  IS  DUE  ON  THE  LAST  DATE 
STAMPED  BELOW 


AN  INITIAL  FINE  OF  25  CENTS 

WILL  BE  ASSESSED  FOR  FAILURE  TO  RETURN 
THIS  BOOK  ON  THE  DATE  DUE.  THE  PENALTY 
WILL  INCREASE  TO  SO  CENTS  ON  THE  FOURTH 
DAY  AND  TO  $1.OO  ON  THE  SEVENTH  DAY 
OVERDUE. 


OCT  10 


LD  21~100m-7,'33 


385919 


c 
0 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


I 


Burpee's  New  Annual 

"The  Leading  American  Seed  Catalog" 

A  bright  book,  published  January  1st  of  each 
year,  is  mailed  FREE  to  all  who  write  for  it.  J^»  If 
you  have  not  received  it  for  the  current  year,  or  need 
a  copy  for  a  friend,  please  apply  either  by  letter  or  on 
a  postal  card.  It  tells  the  plain  truth  about  Seeds, 
including  rare  Novelties  which  cannot  be  had  else- 
where. Beautiful  colored  plates  and  illustrations  from 
nature.  Gives  information  of  real  value  to  all  who 
would  raise  the  choicest  Vegetables  and  most  beauti- 
ful Flowers. 

Our  Aim 

is  to  supply  not  only  the  "  Best  Seeds  that  Grow/' 
but  to  help  you  in  an  intelligent  selection  of  varieties 
and  also  in  their  successful  culture. 


will   pay  to  read  the   Cultural   Leaflets 
offered  in  BURPEE'S  ANNUAL. 


Burpee's  "Blue  List" 

Our  Wholesale    Price-List    of    Seeds    in    Larger 

Quantities  is  mailed  free  on  application 

to  Market  Gardeners  and  Florists 

HVrkii   TMdtii-  fnr  Prrkfii-  Y°u  should  write  at  once  for 
'       mt  this  Wholesale   List,  BUT 
we  cannot  send  it  to  private  planters,  even  if  requested  to  do  so. 

A  Useful  New  Feature  KS&a^*i^t 

to  growers  who  plant  for  profit  is  the  "  plain  talks  "  we  give  in 
every  department,  as  to  just  the  best  varieties  for  different 
purposes. 


Sh41Twe  mail  you  ONE  or  BOTH  Catalogs? 

W.  ATLEE  BURPEE  &  CO. 

Seed  Growers  Philadelphia,  Penna. 


